Well, I'm still at it. My 600 is still bogging down on hard acceleration, or any speeds over 30. I can sit on the machine with it idling. In low I can jump on the throttle and lift the front wheels off the ground, then it will bog as it continues to accelerate. I also have signs of fuel in the air box. And a strong smell off gas. So here is what I've done so far.

1. New Plugs. Started with NGK BKR6EK. These have 2 electrodes. No improvement. Plugs still alittle black. And still getting same bogging/rough running. Switched to the BRK7E plugs, still same problem.

2. New fuel filter.

3. checked the carb breather. The tube that goes up behind the tank. Its clear. I blew into it and fuel shot out of the brass tube in the carb intake.

4. Tried running with out the air filter. No change.

5. Ran carb cleaner though it. Seem to be a momentary fix. But its back to its old problems.

6. Choke appears to be operating normally. The cable is free and the piston operates nomally.

I've now pulled off the carb and I'm going to take it apart and clean it. Does anyone have any suggestions?

What is the adjustment for the float level? Thanks for the help guys. Me and my buddies are going up North, Northern Michigan, riding this weekend. I've been farting around with the thing for 2 weeks now. I don't want to be side lined because of the thing. Thanks again.

 

If your getting gas into air box, check your needle and seat when the carb is apart. You could also have gas in the crankcase, this could cause the bog. The float level on my 700 is 13-14mm or .51-.55 inches.Hope this helps.

 

I just changed my oil and fortunately there is no oil in the crank case. At least thats a positive.

 

my trailboss 250 has the same problem. if you guys figure it out pm me at oksoonerfan04@yahoo.com. i've had 6 people look at it and they all gave me the same answer: damn, i really dont know man. so dont feel bad, we havent figured anything out either.

hope you can help.

 

Since you have the carb off, check the rubber carb manifold real close for tears. I hope you make it up north.

 

Thanks guys, I've got the carb apart now. I haven't found anything that jumps out as wrong. I did notice the main jet is a 155 which is polaris recomendation for 6000-12000 feet and below 40 degrees. I found that interesting. The recommended is 157.5. but it is running rich so I'll keep it.

 

if your smelling gas and the plug is black and also you have gas in the breather you are running way rich. if the boot was torn you would run lean. start w/ the float level and then the needle and seat. you said the enrichener was working right by closing all the way right? if you baby it out of the hole does it run fine or does it stumble. maybe the needle is worn and needs replacing. process of elimation. good luck.

 

Where should the float level be? When I turn the float upside down, the bottom of the float to the flange the bowl mounts to is .50 inches. When I turn the carb right side up and let the float hang, then its .830 in. I adjusted the needle to the second from the top notch and left the float alone.

When I rev the engine with no load there is no issues with hesitation or bogging. When I put in low and hammer the throttle it will jump lift the front wheels off the ground and accelrate like it used to, then start to bog down.

I put it back together to night and still had bogging acceleration but at about 10-15 mph it starts to boog. I can't be sure if its any better until I can get it out and run it. The carb itself was very clean, no deposits or grit.

I checked the intake, but its fine, and yes it would have run lean, not rich with an air leak. The diaphram was fine too.

This is new thing for it. I was having problems with it in march when I was running with my buddys. When I first pulled it off the truck it wouldn't get over 30. But as the weekend went on it was up to 50. But just a hair more throttle and it would bog. I'm stumped.

 

Carbs are trickey. Things you cant see with the naked eye can greatly affect performance. If I were you I would have someone qualified replace all the parts in my carb and be done with it, or hell, buy a new carb. Or if you dont want to pay anyone just start replacing the carb components yourself untill it works or doesnt work, either way you are eliminating possibilities. You have obviously done everything possible up to this point and I think this should be your next step. But the problem sounds like it deffinately resides in your carb...

 

I may have solved my problem, but I'll find out tonight. During my diagnosis I pulled off the air filter, and there was no change in bogging. Then I left off the airbox cover, and it bogged on anything throttle over an idle. I did a little research and found that the carb needs the airbox vacuum for the carb to operate correctly. I may be getting a leak to the cover and when I hit the throttle it looses its vaccum and then bogs.

I will post if this is the problem. Bogging seems to be a common mysterious problem. I hope this is it. Thanks for all the help.