all i can say is that you shouldnt have shut it off but thats jsut me unless it died i thought the efi didnt have a carb or a plug?

 

trailblazer, ity does have a plug. just because its efi it will suck in water just like a carb. by shutting off the engine sometimes it prevents further damn you can do to the crank bearings for one. even though yours is 2 stroke if it happens to you shut it off and then drain it good. it still can do damage to the inner workings of your engine.

 

oh ok thanks for seting me strait on that i just wasnt sure i just thought where it was efi the efi didnt act like a carb...my bad

 

Ok, after checking the maintenance manual I have to pose the question now:

The manual only mentions the front hub gearcase for oil change other than the transmission. Do I have to change the transmission fluid as well, or should that have been safe? Or is there a rear diff. that I have to change out as well for the oil.

Also .. just for clarity .. it was only the front of the bike that went under .. the rear was just barely over the axels .. about 3/4 way up the tires .. the front was down enough for the snorkels to take in water, but just barely ..

I'm going to pick up 3 oil change kits (one for the first flush, one for the second flush, third to stay (hopefully), new air filter, gearcase oil (for the front hubs I'm presuming as I can't find reference to the rear). And a new exhaust spring .. one of the header springs went flying last night when I was releasing the header .. no idea where it went ..

Once again .. responses very much appreciated.

 

Sounds like an expensive hole you put your bike into by the time you get her straigtened away...where was it - stay away from there in the future. And don't spray WD-40 over everything like some other guy suggested...its water based, not exactly what you want when trying to dry things out.

 

going to cost me about 200 for the oil changes and such .. could have been much worse though ... could have lost her completely under, and yep, I'll be steering clear of any holes I can't see the bottom of ..

 

Safetysean, Don't know what rock you've been hiding under, but are you really that clueless??? In WD-40, the"WD" stands for Water Displacer. The only place you wouldn't want to spray it on your ATV's drive system would be the belt area as WD-40 is also a lubricant. If you don't believe it would help "dry out" this fellows ATV, then visit www.wd40.com and educate yourself about this product and some of its uses. Maybe WD-40 means something else in Newfoundland and we are talking about two entirely different products. If we are please clarify yourself.

 

Fireslayer...you must have been raised by a rattlesnake to be as nasty as you are. I am far from clueless and you should probably not buy into advertising and slick websites that self-promote. WD-40 is made up of up to 70% stoddard solvent and while you will probably never come across the actual chemical makeup of this solvent, as manufacturers do not generally release their ingredients, I can tell you from someone heavily involved in the uses of bonding chemicals that it does contain water. There are wicking agents included in WD-40 through petroleum derrivatives that will pick up moisture but this is a short lived process and something that I would not use in the application as suggested by you. I am not saying that WD-40 is not a good product. I use it as a quick lubricant or penetrater, but in applications where it is not sitting inside something and where it can run throughan item quickly, such as to loosen a bolt. Anyway Fireslayer you should beware advertising claims as they are biased towards the results that they want you to see. By the way I have some lovely beachfront property located around an area called Cape Spear that I would love to show you. And as for climbing out from underneath a rock...well Newfoundland is known throughout Canada as The Rock so I guess you got that part correct.

 

WD40 was created in the 50s or 60s when all cars... had points. We all know whey we still don't have points. Maintenance and sensitivity to H2O. That why WD40 was made. It does displace water well and I would expect it to have some solvent like properties since it is also sold as a penetrating lube. I would not spray it in the crank case. Use it to dry eletrical parts and then lube them with di-eletric grease. Change the oil warm it up and dump the oil a second time and you'll be good to go. IF you worried about h2o in the fule system use dry gas to clear that up and run the fuel near dry before re-filling. That should clear you up.

 

Thanks very much madmatt and to everyone else for the helpful replies.

I didn't think myself that using wd40 in the cyl. would be a grate idea since if you spray some on your fingers it has a little bit of a gritty feeling to it. It is a great penetrant as well, and I don't want that lingering in the cylinder sleeve after this is all done.

As said above, I will be picking up a few change kits this evening (even if I only use the one change for a flush and then refil with a new change, at least I'll have the other one left over as a spare.) and go to work on it.

Thanks again and watch out for the deep stuff!!

Oh .. just a thought .. with the breather hoses from the various components up under the hood .. are they required to breath both ways or just releive pressure in the differentials under operating conditions? I was thinking on installing check vavles that would allow the expulsion of excess air, but not allow water to flow in .. any thoughts on that? My fear is creating a vacuum by blocking the natural breathing cycle.