Hey guys,

One thing that annoys me about my scrambler is that shift out happens too fast. I know this is how the Automatics work, but honestly, the Scrambler is right with my Predator until the mid-end of third gear. I've been told that the ranger Primary has a different angle and has a lower start with the same finish, If this is true, i could put that in the scrambler and then gear it up so that the Lower tranny ratio is canceled by the higher final drive ratio. The practical application of this would be a longer shift-out and that same initial hard acceleration for a longer time. I was wonderring if anyone has done this and if it will work, seems sound to me theoretically. I'm selling the Predator (see other posts) and buying an '07 KTM, but intil then i'm back to running w/ YFZs and my Predator guys with the Scrammer and in keeping w/ my traditional inability to leave well enough alone, i'd like the make the scrammer perform more on Par with them, even if it's only until i get an the KTM. THANKS FOR THE INFO!!! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Well ,I may help abit or not. I put a 800 ebs primary clutch on my scrammy 400. I didn;t notice major changes other then ,It back shifts(shifts down) better then the stock400 clutch. As for topend goes,to might have helped abit,but I end up at a point where the engine seems to over rev (all the way at top end) (i may need differant springs and weights)I have a 15 tooth front sproket and 34 rear,with 22 inch tires. I must say it isn't really as important as getting the team secondary clutch,which I also have.4 years ago I put on the team clutch And I feel it made the most differance Iever felt with the clutching and top end speed.If you have a chance to try the clutch for free do it but if you have to buy it I would buy the team clutch first.

as for the angle of the ranger clutch, I'm not sure if it's differant. Also to get to the gearing thing,You sound like you know what your talking about,BUT, in my years of messing with these set ups It always seemed that the clutching would overtake the gearing. another words,The taller I made the gearingnever helped on top end because the clutching would change for the new sprokets.So I would always have to change the Primary springs and or Just the weights. It's all with clutching. I'm sure someone on here could say it better. Ask rick ritter or find bubba they can tell you all about clutching and topend.

 

Thanks for the info matt, but i think i failed to state my objective: I don't actually want mroe top end, what i want is a longer pull before the clutch shifts totally out. The scrambler seems to run like a TLD tranny if you will, it accelerates REALLY fast, then seems to completely overshift at the end and build speed slowly after that. Problem is that happens too early, i'm looking for a way to make it hold to that hard acceleration for a longer period of time. Grabbing 5mph wouldn't be bad either i guess, but really what i want is a longer acceleration and i figured that the Ranger clutch's wider ratio would do that (if of course it is a wider ratio....) thanks again! and if you can tell me a way to get more mid-range acceleration out of this thing don't hesitate [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]!

 

Maybe try some lighter weights. this will cause it to take longer to shift out,as would a harder rate spring.

 

Lighter weights delay shift out, which would actually make the scrambler accelerate faster? Then why do all the clutch kits come with heavy weights? Seems you would need more motor to take advantage of heavier weights... thanks for the suggestion tho.

 

most of the kits come with heavy weights because they also have a harder primary spring .It takes a heavier weight to compress the spring. It does also in some cases take more grunt from the motor to pull a heavy weight and spring combo. Try the lighter weights.that causes more topend rpm(longer shift out) if that don't help try the next spring up.Heavy weights cause a faster shift out (less top end rpm).The heavy weights will also cause the clutch to engage quicker.This clutching thing is a black art,trial and error.

 

i'm very doubtful on the 15-34 gearing,unless you're at very low altitude,the belt will never climb til the top to fully
load the clutch out,i run 12-34 with an 36 finish angle helix and belt climb to the very top,a 38 helix finish angle
is too steep even with lower gearing,it doesn't do more to run steeper helix with fast gearing if the clutch
doesn't take it.
that very interesting the other clutch,it may be the different sheaves angle to give more low grunt.

 

WOW!! All of the polaris clutches have the same angles on the sheeves if you want to control how fas to rslow the machein upshifts or downshifts you need to start with the secondary helix and or spring a steeper helix will upshift/backshift faster a stiffer spring will upshift slower and backshift faster. The weights do contol shift as well but it is not there primary function and would havea smaller affect on it than the helix or spring would. 2ndly the 800 primary will not help a non ebs machine in fact it wil probably make it accelerate slower. It helps the older style ebs machines becasue it has a small hub or shaft on it which allows the belt to sit farther down in the primary thus starting off in a lower gear. The hub or shaft on the non-ebs primarys is already smaller than the 800 primary so I see no reason to spend 350.00 on that??? We offer differnt helix angles fo rhte stock polaris secondarys and we have springs for them too. We also carry the fullline of team clutches and parts too if you are interested. IMO the scrambler shoudln't even be clsoe to a pred or a yfz there are in a completly different class.

 

Speedwerx,

I didn't know that the secondary helix controls shift out too, thought it was all about back shift, in that case got another question: My TS98 roller came off a Scrambler 400, i replaced the spring with the one recommended for the 500, but i left the helix alone. How is this effecting shift out, I.E. how are the two helixs (the one for the 500, and the one for the 400) different, and how does this effect performance? Someone told me the only difference for the two in a TS98 was 2degrees on the finishing angle. Since i have NO IDEA what that means i took their word for it when they said it probably wouldn't effect it much. So maybe you can tell me what the three angles on the helix do, and whether or not i'll see anything from changing to a 500's recommended helix? thanks!

(p.s. it was a long time ago, but i think it was HPD that told me that...)

 

2 degrees will make a differance noticable more to some than others. On the helixes the # 's say 80-60-.40 means it starts at 80 degrees adn it carrys that for .400" which is what the last # means how many thousands the first angle is carried then the 2nd # is the finish angle.

The ts98's came with helix # 420585 58-44-.40 and spring # 210038 85-115 for the 400's the 500 set-up included helix # 420584 58-42-.40 adn spring# 210090 120-185. So if you changed the sping the only differance woudl be the finish angle on the helix whcih is 2 degrees shallower which would pullamybe a couple 100 rpm more at wide open throttle than the 58-44-.40. You might notice a littel slower back shift as well, but not a huge differance.