to make a long story short...


I tore the left rear CV joint, can you get just the boot and replace it? or is it an entire assmbly? How hard are they to replace?

I am not overly familier with working on quads but I can turn a mean wrench. however I dont want to tackle something i am not all to sure about.


any help/advice would be great!

Dathan

 

just go to the local dealer and pick up a cv boot kit. comes with the boot, both clamps to install it and the grease to put back inside.

then pull off the wheel, hub, drop the lower arm. then you can slide your axle out and replace it....

if you can wrench you can tackle it

 

How difficuld is the job on a scale of 1 to 10?

is there an online parts diagram? maybe manual?


thanks for the reply!

 

This is a job that takes about 30 minutes once you know how to do it.

 

it all depends on how hard the shaft comes out of the rear end. first thing im going to ask you is the cv clicking? if you tore the boot and ran thru a bunch of mud and water for a while it doesnt take long to ruin the cv at 200.00 bucks. the boot kits around 30.to 40. i think.

 

the quad has about 30 hours on it, and yes it was raining, I dont think its clicking, however something is making a funny sound around that area.


Thanks agian guys

 

chances are if it thru all the grease out and let water in and rusted the ball bearing. i would ride it a little more and be sure its not gone or clean it real good check for bad spots. i had to replace my cv on my rear after only 30 miles or less w/ a bad boot. you can run it that way but the noise bugs the heck out of me.

 

I did my rear VC boot on my '05 sportsman 500. It wasn't hard, once I was told how to do it. I highly recommend buying the part from www.thecvman.com. He is super-friendly and really helped me after the sale.

The trick for my ATV was that there was no retaining ring for the bearings. Instead, when installed at the factory Polaris peaned the bearing housing with a little tool to prevent the ***** from rolling out. Sounds scary, but what I had to do was use a dremel tool with a sanding drum to sand down several of those peaned divots. This allowed the ***** to drop out so the shaft could be removed. I may still have a couple of pictures I took. Email me at rwhentges@comcast.net if you want me to send them to you.

 

I am gunna ride it around the nighborhood a bit on tuesday and listen for a squeek. then I'll see what happens with the boot or CV joint.

thanks for the help everyone

 

my ideas are:

1 if its torn it MUST come off because with it flapping there it would do more harm than having no boot at all as far as at least any water can drain out whereas the partly decomposed boot may simply be funnelling water into the CV

2 so first step is cut it off [remove both clips as well]

3 then you can see inside to inspect like is the grease intact etc, has it started to rust

4 then put it up on jacks and firstly move wheels by hand to listen for any audible tell tale problems, then start it up and run at low speed

after all that at least you should know the extent of the job and if it all checks out fine you may just think of making a boot from a tire tube or similar and seal the join with silicon etc and save yourself having to remove the whole lot to put on a regular boot