OK..I read some stuff about changing oil on the 500ho motor.. I'm not to impressed to say the least! I was wondering how many of you guy's just drain the oil tank and refill it. and change oil filter??The rest of all the stuff sounds to me like a bunch of bull ****. if so about how much oil does the tank hold after draining it. and filter change..aprox. Thanks alot!

 

It takes two quarts approximately. What part are you not impressed with. Crawling under the quad to drain 1 cup from the crankcase, or priming. If you are using polaris oil you can probably get away with not draining the oil from the crankcase. Polaris's oil is pretty good. On priming I've gotten away with out doing it a few times, but try to do it for peace of mind..

 

it only takes like 10 minutes to drain the old oil, take off the filter, put on the new filter, and fill it back up..

 

I only drain the tank and change the filter and have yet to have a problem. I t takes about two quarts that way. The manual says it holds about one cup of oil in the crankcase but I have yet to find that plug.

 

I found the following while looking up methods for doing oil change on Polaris 500s:

Here’s the easy way to do it, and all that’s necessary. Drain the reservoir, leave the plug out. Remove the filter, leave it off. Leave your drain pan under the reservoir and put some rags/towels under the filter mount and out on to the floor board next to it. Now, with the ignition switch OFF pull on the recoil starter about a dozen times. Wait a few minutes and do it again. This will pick up 90% of that sump oil, sending to the reservoir and the filter mount where it will drain out. Do it a third time if you really want to be sure.

Install the new filter, reinstall the reservoir drain plug, refill with oil. Run engine and check for leaks after you’ve cleaned up the mess.

This sounds nice and easy, especially compared to some of the more comprehensive methods I've been seeing, but I want to know with this method do you need to finish up by priming?

Thanks for any wisdom you can impart,
Vintage Honda

 

To be honest with you, I've only primed the oil system when I've had to rebuild em! or have had cam damage. I would pull the fitting from the tank and clean the screen and prime system on the first start. The easiest way I've found is similar to your post: remove drain plug from tank,after draining,CRANK and run for ONLY 20 seconds! This will pump out the approximate 8 ounces of sump oil out the tank.Remove filter,will have remaining oil in it. Replace with new filter and oil and let idle for a few minutes. Two quarts will sometimes show too much on the dipstick if you don't run long enough! JUST let it run a little longer and then kill it. Dip stick screws all the way in,then check the oil. UNLESS the oil is filthy black or hasn't been maintained properly,is the only time I check the screen in the tank. Seems like almost everyone I've pulled have been clean except when they have had cam or piston damage from neglect ,then particles will show up on the screen.Oil type always starts a debate,so I will just say what the manual says, 0w40 (Mobil 1 or any other synthetic brand if available) OR the newer PS4 PLUS Polaris (2w50). You can prime IF you have doubts,just clamp off the top vent hose on the tank,close to the fitting(there is a slit about 2 inches out for condensation and in case of ice build up) run for about three minutes and release vice grips or hose clamp and you should hear a HISS of air,then check the oil level. OPT

 

I Also drain the oil tank and after its drains I start up the ATV and let it run for 10 seconds and the additional cup for oil in the crankcase will also drain out the oil tank, then I change the filter. I did the hard way of checking the oil line screen and it was alway for nothing because it was super clean, once you disconnect the oil line it must be reprimed.

 

I just reach under and pull the plug can do it with my eyes shut . As for the screen never cleaned it in 9800 miles and I never will as posted above takes like 10 minutes .

 

OKOKOK,I know this is an "Old Threaad" but I wanted to revive it cause of one question.

I primed the oiling system as prescribed in the book,run it for about twenty seconds as prescribed,released the pinching clamps but I am so deaf{cant see for crap either.LOL}that I can not hear good enough to tell if there was air come through.
Is there anyother way to tell if the oiling system is primed besides awaiting for the rocker arms or crankshaft and rods to start clattering???
Dadgum,I do`nt want to ruin this engine.

 

You may or may not hear a hiss of air plus if you are deaf like I am you almost have to stick your head up by the vent hose which also if you have a fat head like mine it's almost impossible! If you clamped off the line close to the tank vent fitting,then I wouldn't worry if you don't hear a gush of air. Some do some don't plus the ones that I rebuilt and were dry from the start made the most hissing noise! Just check the oil level after you add 2 quarts after running for several minutes or you can get an overfull reading on the dipstick. Just run around the block,kill it,let it set a minute then check the level.I'ts not that critical if it's off a little as the dry sump system doesn't have that much oil in the engine at all times,most of it's in the remote tank and recirculates and cools the returning oil. This allows the engine to weigh less and produce more power for it's size without being dragged down by the friction of the sloshing of oil all around like a wet sump engine does. OPT