I have the Deluxe Plow System
#1
I just wrote a huge long post about the plowframe and what i did to improve/debug mine and the @$%#&*!! server died when i tried to submit it.
anyway, if you're interested, ask me i've been using it for a month now.
sorry.
anyway, if you're interested, ask me i've been using it for a month now.
sorry.
#4
I would like to know about this system and what you had to do to debug. I posted early about this system. I'm still waiting for mine to come in. Any info would be appreciated. You can email me at forbesm@ghsp.com
Thanks
Thanks
#5
i have the plow system, and i love it. It is great for pushing snow or dirt. IT IS BEEFFFFY, i mean it is tough, i have ran into a rock goin 20 miles an hour, and it just tripped and no damage. i was amazed. And it is a light on the wallet
#7
PolarisMan
Please explain to me how a $400 plow system is "light on the wallet" for a 15 year old. Either daddy has increased your allowance or Mickey D's has raised its pay over the last 10 years or so. But I guess if a teenager can afford over $15,000 in new quads, I guess $400 is chump change.
Please explain to me how a $400 plow system is "light on the wallet" for a 15 year old. Either daddy has increased your allowance or Mickey D's has raised its pay over the last 10 years or so. But I guess if a teenager can afford over $15,000 in new quads, I guess $400 is chump change.
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#9
ok,
if you paid $400 for the plow, you got robbed.
1. the plow comes on and off super easy. one pin in front and one way in the rear where your ball hitch is at. unhook the winch (or lifting arm chain) and it's off. no tools required. the lifting arm is not so easy off. it has a large plate that bolts under the footboard. unfortunately, even if you are going to use your winch to lift the plow, you still have to buy the lifting arm. this is the only way to get the front mounting bracket.
2. i use my winch to lift the plow. if you are going to do this, keep a few things in mind. the winch is very strong. i have already bent the plate where the winch cable hooks to the plowframe, it popped the bolt head right off and stripped the threaded chain link that held it all together. i had this plate welded down, but have since changed where i hook the winch to the plowframe anyway. i had a very very large i bolt installed near the front of the plowframe in an empty bolt hole. this is a much better way to lift the plowframe if you are using the winch.
3. my winch started to freeze up on me (warn 2000#). i would use it frequently while plowing and after it sat idle for a while, it would be frozen. not the cable, but the gears inside the body. we've had temps as low as -25 degrees and -60 wind chill lately. my dealer warranteed the winch and put a brand new one on for me.
4. on top of the blade is a place for a 4" wide rubber flap that you can order seperately. this is to deflect the snow from coming over the top of the plow. i would suggest you get this. it will keep the snow out of your winch cable reel (somewhat). i actually had a 4" peice of steel made to fit here instead. this deflects the snow and gives the plow some needed weight to keep it on the ground. it does stay on the ground pretty good, you can set the aggressiveness of the blade angle. i have only been using the plow for just over a month and already need to replace both skid shoes and the wear bar. i am going to use a 1/4" peice of steel for the wear bar. the skid shoes are also going to be a heavier duty peice made in a welding shop rather than from polaris.
5. i had to install the front shock spacers. this helps keep the front from sagging too much when the plow is lifted. also, i aired up my front tires to about 10psi. i would suggest getting some weight on the rear rack as well. i plow a few driveways with an incline and it's incredibly hard to back up straight with all the weight on the front tires. i am going to put 1 or 2 tractor suitcase weights on my rear rack. this should help keep it steady when backing up an incline.
the only real performance problem i've had is when i hit a hard drift that stops me. it occaisionally makes the front elbow hinge that guides the raising and lowering invert. then i have to get off and pull it back out by hand. but that's fairly rare.
i can easily plow snow into piles upwards of 3' high and scrape right down to bare concrete, so i think it's a good system.
if you paid $400 for the plow, you got robbed.
1. the plow comes on and off super easy. one pin in front and one way in the rear where your ball hitch is at. unhook the winch (or lifting arm chain) and it's off. no tools required. the lifting arm is not so easy off. it has a large plate that bolts under the footboard. unfortunately, even if you are going to use your winch to lift the plow, you still have to buy the lifting arm. this is the only way to get the front mounting bracket.
2. i use my winch to lift the plow. if you are going to do this, keep a few things in mind. the winch is very strong. i have already bent the plate where the winch cable hooks to the plowframe, it popped the bolt head right off and stripped the threaded chain link that held it all together. i had this plate welded down, but have since changed where i hook the winch to the plowframe anyway. i had a very very large i bolt installed near the front of the plowframe in an empty bolt hole. this is a much better way to lift the plowframe if you are using the winch.
3. my winch started to freeze up on me (warn 2000#). i would use it frequently while plowing and after it sat idle for a while, it would be frozen. not the cable, but the gears inside the body. we've had temps as low as -25 degrees and -60 wind chill lately. my dealer warranteed the winch and put a brand new one on for me.
4. on top of the blade is a place for a 4" wide rubber flap that you can order seperately. this is to deflect the snow from coming over the top of the plow. i would suggest you get this. it will keep the snow out of your winch cable reel (somewhat). i actually had a 4" peice of steel made to fit here instead. this deflects the snow and gives the plow some needed weight to keep it on the ground. it does stay on the ground pretty good, you can set the aggressiveness of the blade angle. i have only been using the plow for just over a month and already need to replace both skid shoes and the wear bar. i am going to use a 1/4" peice of steel for the wear bar. the skid shoes are also going to be a heavier duty peice made in a welding shop rather than from polaris.
5. i had to install the front shock spacers. this helps keep the front from sagging too much when the plow is lifted. also, i aired up my front tires to about 10psi. i would suggest getting some weight on the rear rack as well. i plow a few driveways with an incline and it's incredibly hard to back up straight with all the weight on the front tires. i am going to put 1 or 2 tractor suitcase weights on my rear rack. this should help keep it steady when backing up an incline.
the only real performance problem i've had is when i hit a hard drift that stops me. it occaisionally makes the front elbow hinge that guides the raising and lowering invert. then i have to get off and pull it back out by hand. but that's fairly rare.
i can easily plow snow into piles upwards of 3' high and scrape right down to bare concrete, so i think it's a good system.


