i was out the other day playing in some light snow we had. There was a mud pit that had a thick sheet of ice on it. I was doing donuts on my 04 400sp in 2wd. i broke through the ice with my rear tires and couldn't get out. So i put it in awd and tried to climb out and nothing happened so i rocked it a little bit and still nothing. so i just hammered it and was rocking the thing violently and then all of a sudden i heard a LOUD bang and the front diff kicked in. it scared met so i immediatly let out. it was really loud. I was probably at 4500rpms when it happened.

So i tried again to crawl out and the awd was working and it climbed out. So then i turn awd off and then whenever i needed it it would come on. The light would come on, but i would have no awd. but if i take a REALLY tight turn with awd on it will spin the back tires then POP really loud and then the awd will kick in.

I'm sure i screwed something up really bad. But is there anyway it could be electrical? all the wires and boxes under the head light are really muddy. I'm going to clean them out and spray it down and unhook the battery to maybe reset the electronics or something.

Does anyone else have suggestions of what it might be or how to fix it?

 

this is just a guess, but i bet you destroyed your roller gauge in the front end.

 

There have been alot of posts on the polaris AWD in the last week or so on this forum. Do a search or go back and look for AWD topics. In 2004 polaris used two different AWD systems. They did the exact same thing, but engaged in two differnt places. Early 2004 models used an AWD syatem that engages in the HUBS. There is constant power from the tran, to the diff, to the driveshafts and the engagement occurs in the HUBS. In later 2004.5 models the AWD engages in the diff. Same system as the hubs just on a larger scale. If you have large black iron hubs its the older model, and it engages in the hubs. If you have aluminum hubs, it engages in the diff. As for what I think, I believe it to be the plastic cage in the front diff. I have had a similar problem and that was the fix. If you have a lift, some common tools, and some mechanical knowledge you can fix it yourself. Part costs $220.50 and you'll need new fluid.

Just an openion, and you'll get alot more on here, but if you have anymore info or questions, i would be glad to help. Private message me if you like.

 

thanks for the replies, guys. I have done a search before i posted and my searches turned up 4-5 threads. mostly dealing with newer models that are tied in with the speedometer.

trailbound: my hubs look like aluminum. They are not black, but there is a black rubber bushing type thing on the end sticking out. but the hub itself appears to be aluminum.


I don't have a lift, but i have two good jacks, quite a few jack stands and a good set of tools. i am mechanically inclined. i've been working on and tinkering with my race car (a 97 cobra) for years and am confident in my mechanical abilities.

stendori: is that what trailbound is refering to? if not, is it user replaceable and what is expected parts cost on that?

thanks again for the replies!! I do appreciate it!

 

from what i can see, they made 2 differnt front ends all together like trailbound said. one has a roller set up($220.00) and the other one is a totally differnt set up. im guessing its a partial year model change. trail might know which is which. im guessing you have the newer style w/ the roller.

 

i had an issue with my awd, i was out on the lake and it was in AWD but the front wheels weren't spinning i was just spinning the back tires than bam the awd kicked in. I really thought i broke something because after that the front left wheel wouldnt go but the right would. i let it sit for a week changed the hub fluid and when i took it out again it worked perfectly, i think it was the cold ...