what do you have to take loose to get the shafts out this is my first Polaris and I havnt gottena repair manual yet and can anyone recoment the instant download manuals they sell on ebay

thanks; RodL

 

well I loosened the rear diff. had to take about everything off each side to get to all the bolts but the rear of the driveshaft came right loose, Im now in the process of drilling the roll pin out of the front yoke after trying to drive it out fearing to damage the gearbox or seal. I already had part of the left side loose to replace the axel bearing, I got the old race off the hub but the carrier part is being more contrary, any suggestions? I noticed I think 3 milled out areas on the inside are these there to use to drive the race out? any advice appreceated

thanks; RodL

 

I did mine last year and did a write-up with pictures.
see here...

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v3...0prop%20shaft/
--U joints replacement photos

u-joints 1

u-joints 2


My rear prop shaft U-joints nearest the trans were shot bad and the one nearest the rear diff. seems to be good and tight still.
The roll pins came out easy with an air hammer and the rear differential did NOT need to be slid back for clearance.
I carefully assembled the U-joints into the yokes using a large C-clamp, making sure the joint spun freely and didn?t bind.




The U-joints are the same front /rear now since '04 MY I believe.

I originally bought the Auto Zone # 10027 ($10) that was wrongly crossed to the ref NAPA # 1501 and the U-joint caps are too big.

I ended up getting the correct replacement part # 1-0170 that crossed to the # 338 at a Car Quest store. The # 1501 and # 338 was not available at most the other places including NAPA, as it is special order only.

Apparently some of the stores more in the rural areas that carry implement replacement parts carries them like the Car Quest store I went to.

The rear prop shaft U-joint correct cap diameters are .938" and the distance between the cap base (clip area) or yoke ears is 1.500".
The # 1501 and # 338 are both listed with these same dimensions.




--------------------------------------------------

Old (original) rear prop shaft U-joint (closest to trans) and yoke measurements*.

-Yoke I.D. is .938" (5/16ths) -Yoke btwn. Ears is 1.550" (clearance)
-Old U-joint caps O.D. is .938"
-Distance btwn. cap base (clip area) is 1.500".
-Old U-joint caps end to end distance is 2.300"
-Roll (spring) pin Dia. .312" (5/16) -Polaris p/n 7661913 $3+
-Spline hole for roll pin .310"
*all measurements are approximate with a dial caliper on used parts for a 2002 sp700.


New U-joints replacement # 1-0170 used for rear prop shaft U-joint (closest to trans). Measurements also as listed in parts book catalog.

-U-joint caps O.D. is .938"
-Distance btwn. cap base (clip area) is 1.500".
-U-joint caps end to end distance is 2.300"


Jim P

 

when I called Polaris about u-joints they told me they changed them in 03 and a certain manufacture date took different joints mine being built 12-5-02 took the newer ones that were $15 higher and all 4 are the same i will find out for sure when I get it out. My 03 only has a rollpin at the trans end and I didnt think fo trying an air hammer I will try it tommarow as the pins are hard and eats up drill bits. I also had no clarence at all to be able to remove the shaft. After I complet the rear I have to do the front as well. I just bought the machine and the fellow told me he thought it needed a rear cv joint but soon as I got it off the ground I could see the bearing was shot and most of the ujoints were gone but the axel joint seems fine

thanks; RodL

 

mine only had a roll pin at the trans end too.

If you read my other post that may have been where the p/n cross problems may have come from (change in o3).
My build date is 11/21/01.

other sources...


600/700/800 Sportsman Twins and most modern Polaris quads.
http://parts.polarisind.com/Browse/Browse.asp --Polaris OEM parts catalog / microfiche

-Motosport Summer 2007 Catalog page 240-241 (1-866-667-6288) www.Motosport.com

EPI Ball Joint, Code: PGRBWK (state year/ model) $29.99
EPI U-Joint, Code: QSBHXW (state year/ model) $29.99
EPI Tie Rod Ends, $29.99 Pg. 249
A-arm bushings, Boot kits, CV Joints, and Shafts also available on pages 240-241 .

Elka Spring Kits/shocks $345 Pg. 250-51
Pro Armor Skids Pg. 247
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-Dennis Kirk 2006 catalog page 646 www.denniskirk.com
EPI Ball Joint, # 55-611 $29
EPI A-Arm bushings (p/n varies by model and year) $86

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-Shade Tree Powersports Spring 2007 catalog Pg. 32 (1-888-742-3387) www.ShadeTreePowersports.com
Motovan ATV U-Joint, # 33-85 $19
CV Boot kits $19

 

mission accomplished replaced all four u-joints with napa $8.63 each all the same and left wheel bearing I got off ebay for $29.99 plus shipping I seen later I could have gotten 2 for the same price but I jumped on the first one I saw just got it yesterday and finished it up today I noticed Iv got some play in my tyrod ends and an exhaust leak at the front lookes like takes a gasket in the connection guess Ill find out now if this machine suits me Iv been ridding a 99 grizzly for 7 yrs and it is a beast but I thought a twin might be a little smoother

 

Great! what NAPA U-joint p/n did you use??

the donut at the Y- pipe manifold wears out, Sp700 the gasket donut is NAPA part #31360 .

 

napa u-loint #210-0170 they said its a new part no. thnks for the # on that donut Ill check it out maybe se if outozone has a cross reference I found over the years U-joints are about the only bargain at nappa but they seem to have more experienced people and come up with parts when the people at car quest and outozone dont know how to match a bearing or something by size

 

Does anyone have any advice on how to remove the rear propeller shaft form a kawasaki 700 4x4 praire, 2004? I'm replacing the swing arm bearings, and when i pulled the rear off the shaft it stayed in the tranny. I need to remove it so i can line it back up with the rear. I tryed heating it, and gently tapping it with a hammer with no success. Is there another way to do this?

 

If you post in the Kawasaki forum guys there can help you. BUT if it's what I think it is,rusted splines? A little PB Blaster along with an air hammer can usually get em off the splines easily(if there isn't a pin holding it one). On this I'm just guessing on the Kawa......