I have a 00 Srcam 500 4x4, I have had it for about 2 months and have already had to get a new belt put about 3 weeks ago.It was coming apart at the seam, and was stretched bad.I was wondering if a aferter market clutch kit would help with the belt(if so witch one is best to go with).I would also like to downshift faster.does anyone have that supertrapp IDS2 on a scram 500 if so how does it work?thanx for the help.

 

A clutch kit may help belt life, and will definately help downshift/backshift quicker. Which kit would best suit you depends on your riding style. RCR or HPD will be able to answer that question better than I. As will any other place that sells the kits. Those are the only two I dealt with & feel they both know what they are doing.

 

ive heard that the stock belts from polaris are good for the lower end models (trailboss325). but when you get up to your catagory you smoke threw the belts. ive heard that goodyear makes a belt that will fit your atv. it is supposed to be much better than stock (so Ive heard) anothe nice thing about goodyear, you can order at any auto parts store(no dealer markup)

 

I managed to burn mine the first time out on my Scrambler. Like some guys in here have said, the wheels must be turning or your burning the belt. I have learned to "feel" my quad better thus avoiding belt burning incidents.

Brian

 

Buy a goodyear gatorback belt, then the last thing on your mind will be belt problems.
$40 bucks gets you one.

2000 SCRAMBLER 400 2X4

SCRAMDADDY400

 

Scramdaddy,

Thanks for the tech tips on the zerks. Ill give that a shot week after next. Next week ill be in Steamboat Skiing.
So if i counted correctly there are 9 zerks. I dont want to miss any.

What about the hubs? Does water get in there? Are there any other areas that i should grease besides entire outside of everything, zerks,chain.

About the oil, the manual says use Polaris Premium 4 cycle Synthetic 0W40 so thats what I bought. I live in hot as he11 houston texas. Is that the one i should use or should i go with the 10w40?

Thanks

 

By the way, just to make a comment about the belts. I thought Polaris had a lifetime warranty on the belt? Can i expect to break one?

 

Xplor, What do you mean the wheels must be turning or youll burn the belt? Are you saying that its not good to let it idle in nutral? Or not good to let it idle in forward or reverse? Or are both bad? How can i prevent belt burn?

 

You got'em all spyder30 nine zerks.
About the hub thing a good way to see if you got water in the hubs is to unscrew the fill plug and stick a strip of white paper down the fill hole to get an oil sample, if the oil is dark and looks normal your fine, if the oil looks milky brown you got water in there, drain the oil and put new oil in.

About anymore place to grease or lube the only others I can think of are the throttle cable and foot brake pedal.
Sence you do live in texas your probably getting consistant temps. in the 80's, running a striaght 40 (0w 40) is not a good idea, its to thin of an oil. Run 10w 40 it will provide your machine more protection, if you run the straight 40 in your weather conditions the oils viscosity is'nt going to hold up to the high heat.

Have a great skiing trip!!!

2000 SCRAMBLER 400 2X4

SCRAMDADDY400

 

Spyder, What I meant is that when riding I always keep the wheels turning. When I first got the Scram I was in a deep rut "trying" to get out. It lacked torque (low end power) at that time and I could hear the engine rev but the wheels were not turning. I later learned that it was normal that the front end came up on this type of sporty machine and I had to give it more gas.

Same thing on the Xplorer. My wife was stuck on a log and her wheels were really stuck. She gave it throttle but not enough. The engine was revvin' but the wheels were not spinnin'.Smoke was coming from the belt housing... It's a "go by feel" thing.

Don't worry about idleing or anything like that.