Creeping Clutches
 

I have an 02 Sportsman 500 and an 02 Sportsman 700.

Both have developed a "creep" when put into gear. The 700 has gotten so bad that you have to turn it off to change gears. The idle speed is set as low as possible without stalling the quad, and both have new belts on them.

What would cause this?

Thanks for you help in advance.

Creeping Clutches
 

Take the primary clutch apart and check the bearings in big pulley. If you catch it in time before the bearings come apart. You can usually tear everything apart and clean with the famous WD40 and other lubricants for high speed bearings.


Should take care of it. If not, probaly the clutch....>$300.00

Creeping Clutches
 

Check the clutch alignment. Both engines can be pivoted slightly at the front if need be in order to adjust alignment. A manual helps out a lot with this stuff. Check the motor mounts to make sure they're not broken.

Creeping Clutches
 

Thanks for the replies - I've been into both clutches, and the one way EBS bearing seems to be fine on both.

When you take the belt off, and put it back on, it works fine for the first few minutes - until you accelerate the first time, then they return to acting up with this "creeping".

Somewhere on the "net" I found a post about having to add shims inside the drive clutch - anyone know anything about this??

Thanks

Creeping Clutches
 

With the clutch cover off, start it in nuetral and look down into the front clutch, is the belt centered in the sheaves? or riding on one side or the other?
If so it's out of alignment. So what changed?
Check the motor mounts, good?
If not replace bad mount and align the clutches.
You allready said you checked the clutches and they are good?
So it has to be an alignment problem, the shims wouldn't change. Unless you changed clutches.

When idling in nuetral you want to get the belt centered in the sheaves so it's not turning the belt and secondary clutch.
Non EBS belt will float/turn a little but no turning on a EBS.

Creeping Clutches
 

Creeping Clutches
 

Rick - The alignment is good, per the manual, had that happen to the 700 sometime before, and the front mount on the 700 actually has some sorts of adjustment compared to the 500.

Harley - That post makes sense, and that is the kind of info I was really looking for - I'm ordering some "washers" per Polaris parts diagrams to see if this works. I have all the clutching tools to do this, just didn't know where to go.....

Thanks for all the replies - I will post back if this solves the problem.......

Creeping Clutches
 

WHEN YOU DISASSEMBLED THE PRIMARY, HOW FAR DID YOU TEAR IT DOWN , DID YOU REMOVE SPIDER? IF YOU DIDN'T YOU MISSED THE PROBLEM.

HOW MANY MILES ON BOTH MACHINES? WHEN THEY WERE NEWER, BEFORE PROBLEM STARTED, DID YOU LET THEM SIT AND IDLE WHILE IN GEAR?

Creeping Clutches
 

My 06 700 did this creed thing and it was a broken motor mount up front and they replaced my primary clutch

Creeping Clutches
 

Finally got the "washers" in yesterday and installed them on the 700 today - The clutch works just beautifully, like a new one - no more "creeping". Taught my dad a lesson too, as he has always just sold the customer a new clutch to fix the problem.

Harley, the fiber shim cut to fit under the brass shim ended up being too tight - the 1 way bearing would not spin when torqued down by the spider. Ended up with just the fiber shim on the inside, and a new brass shim on the outside.

Thanks for all the replies.

Creeping Clutches
 

RULE #1 BUY THE MANUAL it is just as important as the machine IMO. That being said if all your springs and bearings are good the following info is where I'd be checking, from what little I know of Polaris ATV's - I have a lot of experience with snowmobile clutches - yes there are shims behind secondary clutch, there is also a center to center specific specification - on a Arctic Cat Snowmobile its 12.2" center to center of clutch bolts so I'm sure Polaris ATV has some center to center measurement as their sleds do. Then there is also a belt deflection specification and also a sheave offset alignment. A little bit of tinkering in the above mentioned spots and you should be all set. Good luck

Creeping Clutches
 

the big differnce maine, is that the one way bushing in the primary, which is the ebs, has these fiber washers that do wear out to make them creep. i wish the clutches were as easy as the polaris sleds were. it would be so much easier lol.

Creeping Clutches
 

THOSE BUSHINGS GET WORN OUT FROM LETTING THE MACHINE SET AND IDLE WHILE IN GEAR..

YOU HAVE THE PRIMARY ROTATING, BUT THE EBS IS NOT CAUSING THE BUSHING TO BURN INTO THE INNER SHEAVE ON CLUTCH,. I HAVE SEEN THIS DESTROY CLUTCHES. AFTER THE BUSHING IS GONE THE EBS WILL START TO BURN INTO THE ALUMINUM OF THE INNER SHEAVE.

Creeping Clutches
 

Where you already got your ATV fixed Ujoint I want to hijack your thread and ask a couple of questions, I'm am very familiar to AC & POL. sled clutches and understand how they work BUT this EBS is all new to me so can one of you give me the basic principle on EBS system please. My atv is a 99 500 Magnum 4x4 w/EBS and I've done a forum search but didn't really find a layman's explanation of it and I'd also like to know is it a normal wear item like clutch weight bushings and how do you check the EBS bushing for wear- While I'm at it how about the clutch weights on the drive clutch of these atvs is the bushing in the weights a high wear item? Thanks for any time and help spent to explain this to me.

Creeping Clutches
 

The EBS clutch works on the same principal as the clutches you are used to, the only exception is, the belt has constant tension to the Drive clutch when in the idle (or released) position. This is due to the belt riding on the EBS bearing, which is a 1 way bearing (meaning it only rotates freely in 1 direction, rotation in the opposite direction causes it to "lock up").

If the clutch sheaves release the belt, AND the rear wheels are still "pushing" the quad faster than the RPM's of the engine, the EBS bearing "locks up" and causes the engine backpressure to assist in the speed decrease. Notice the use of backpressure, as this will not function properly with a 2 stroke engine, due to lesser backpressure of the 2 stroke engine.

Most ATV's with a centrifugal type clutch system (automatic clutch - no manual activation of the clutch, ie no clutch lever) incorporates a 1 way clutch bearing to assist in the speed decrease (otherwise on deceleration the quad would "freewheel" - just like the non-EBS Polaris quads)

Wear on the clutch parts is obviously due to operating conditions and circumstance - the most common wear we see on the clutches is the buttons.

Creeping Clutches
 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: MaineWheeler

Where you already got your ATV fixed Ujoint I want to hijack your thread and ask a couple of questions, I'm am very familiar to AC & POL. sled clutches and understand how they work BUT this EBS is all new to me so can one of you give me the basic principle on EBS system please. My atv is a 99 500 Magnum 4x4 w/EBS and I've done a forum search but didn't really find a layman's explanation of it and I'd also like to know is it a normal wear item like clutch weight bushings and how do you check the EBS bushing for wear- While I'm at it how about the clutch weights on the drive clutch of these atvs is the bushing in the weights a high wear item? Thanks for any time and help spent to explain this to me.</end quote></div>

the clutch weights ive seen dont have the fiber bushing like the sled weights but they still wear into the weight and the pin after awhile.