Deej, great post. Precise with no extra BS. I had a CMP plow mount on my '97 that I had to take clean off to reach up through the hole. I tried to time my oil changes to be before I put it on for winter and after I took it back off in spring.

 

Thanks Deej. You were right on. For those who didn't know about draining the 1/2 cup out of the sump, I reccomend the POLARIS repair manual. It's the best 60 bucks you''l spend. I tell you everything you need to know about your machine and how to do routine maintenance yourself. Thanks everyone.

 

I agree. It says nothing in the owners manual or teh instructions that come with that oil change kit. I purchased the manual last week after my oil change. Very thorough and easy to understand book.

 

Glad to help.

I recently wrote something out for a friend, so I will include it here. Along with the info above, it is a bit of a how-to guide for Sportsman oil changes and greasing. It locates all grease fittings on the various year machines. It may help someone, so here it is:

Sportsman Oil Change Instructions (every 50 hrs recommended):

- run the engine to warm up the oil and suspend the dirt
- wipe dirt from around the filter base, dipstick, and drain plugs
- remove both drain plugs and drain oil, let drip, then replace the plugs
- place an old rag under the oil filter to catch oil, and spin the old filter off

- clean the filter area on engine, oil the new filter gasket, spin the oil filter on, hand tighten only
- pour 2 full quarts of Polaris 0-W-40 oil into the oil tank (it will take at least 2)
- RUN THE ENGINE for a few minutes to fill the filter and get the oil to the correct level in
the tank (vs filter and engine sump), shut it off and let it sit for a minute
- then check the oil level and top up as required
- my 1998 and 2002 always took about 2.25 quarts, my 2007 uses exactly 2

- when checking the oil later, always run the engine first to get the tank vs sump level correct,
let it sit for a minute or two, then check the level
- thread the dipstick in to get the correct level

The Polaris oil change kit used to come with 3 quarts of oil, new seals for both drain plugs, a filter, and instructions (that described the extra drain plug!!). Now the kit only has 2 quarts of oil, the filter and "updated" instructions. I reuse the old drain plug seals (always did anyways), and I keep an extra quart of oil in stock for topping up.

Grease Instructions (with each oil change):

There are 32 grease fittings on the '98 Sportsman, 25 on the 2002 Sportsman, and 5 on the 2007 Sportsman. Here are the locations:

2 - L&R rear inner u joints (1998 - dual CV joints on newer units)
2 - L&R rear outer u joints (1998 - dual CV joints on newer units)
2 - L&R outer tie rod ends (1998)
1 - lower steering post (1998)
1 - upper steering post (1998, 2002)
2 - L&R front inner U joints (1998, 2002)
2 - L&R front lower ball joints (1998, 2002)
1 - u joint midway on prop shaft (under recoil) (1998, 2002)
1 - u joint at prop shaft leading to front differential (1998, 2002)
1 - foot brake pedal pivot point (1998, 2002)
2 - L&R ends of rear anti-roll bar (1998, 2002)
6 - L&R rear upper control arms (1 outer, 2 inner) (1998, 2002)
6 - L&R rear lower control arms (2 outer, 1 inner) (1998, 2002, inner only for 2007)
2 - L&R inner part of front lower control arms (1998, 2002, 2007)
1 - expansion splined yoke joint in prop shaft (under recoil, behind foot brake pedal pivot)
(1998, 2002, 2007)
CAUTION - 3 pumps maximum should be used in the prop shaft yoke
Note: Polaris recommends that the u-joints be filled until fresh grease is expelled from all 4 sections of each joint

For Good Access:

Raise the machine and remove all 4 wheels.

Rotate the drive shafts to get good access to the grease fittings on the shafts. Rotating one back hub by hand will rotate all drive shafts on the older machines (with Hilliard clutches at each front wheel).

On the newer machines (with the single Hilliard clutch in the front differential), rotating the rear hub will rotate all shafts up to the front differential only. In this case, rotate the front hubs to rotate the two front shafts. This point is moot because there are no fittings on the front drive shafts of newer machines!

deej

 

When you oil the new oil filter gasket, use new oil. Some guys will dip their finger into the dirty oil they just drained and smear that on. That's a no-no but lots of people do it.

 

I just picked up the wifes 500 from it's first service.
Talked to the guy a bit about oil change on the 500. He essentially described exactly what you wrote Deej.
Get it warm, drop the drain plugs, let em drip till it essentially stops.
Take off the filter, wipe the mounting clean put a new filter with wet gasket in place about 3/4 turn after it touches the flange.
Replace the plugs, wipe up any mess.
Add 2 qts of oil run it.
Look for leaks
Top off the tank
Good to 100Hrs.

Nice write up on the zerks too!

On the getitng the gasket wet, I always used new oil, the guy in those videos running around the other day said use old oil.
Oh well. The key is not the stuff that got dirt and mud on it. You want it to be free of "Chunks"

Forgot one thing, save that ratty old Synthetic oil, Filter it and run it as Bar oil in your chainsaw. but that has nothing to do with Popo ATV's just good recycling.

Thanks

 

I guess only the 500 has this seperate resevoir? I don't see it on my 03 700 or 08 800. I only see the one drain plug and thats all I have ever drained on the 03 700 and always put in 2 qts.