I repairing a worn and non maintained sportsman 500 and had a few questions.

1. how do you get the front axle shafts out of the diff?

2. how often does the centrifugal clutch weights and stuff need to be replaced (if at all)? The outter most part of the weighted system rubbed holes in the plastic cover.

3. there were two wires going into the hub (for 4wd I guess) that were cut flush with the hub and that's why the tire wasn't spinning on the drivers front. Do you have to replace the whole "shibang"? Can someone explain how the 4wd system works?

Thanks,
Travis

 

they should just sanp out of the front end. they are held in w/ a snap ring. the older clutch covers have been updated w/ bigger ones that dont warp as bad. chck the weights and bushing for excessive wear and replace if needed and at least clean the clutches good. you might be able to take apart and rewire and seal the housing wires, but someone esle will have to chime in for sure.

 

Have a small clevis pin in front driveshaft at diff that has to be knocked out(can reuse) Counterweights usually last many years, the main problems on clutch rubbing were cover related(replacements are sturdier?) If wires cut to where cant splice, have to remove strut coil sleeve and coil assy if necessary. NOT a good job unless you have a manual and are good with tools! Damage to strut can easily happen! 4wd drive system engages front wheel when back tires slip,engages hilliard in front hub to lock and pull. IF wires were cut deliberately, previous owner could be trying to hide costly repairs. Manual first,then tackle it! Like the old carpenter saying:measure twice,cut once! Good luck

 

cool thanks!! We bought 2 500's new back in 96 so no previous owners. The wires just looked like they got ripped out but LONG ago. I was a mechanic for a while and have most of the tools needed for repairs, so I think (hope) I can tackle it. ha ha. What about how the rear axle shaft comes out? I loosened the bolt that goes throught the yoke into the diff and it doesn't move?

Thanks again

Travis

 

SOMETIMES almost feels like welded in splines from dirt,sand and grit. Use penetrating oil,heat,then jerk like HELL! Not kidding one bit! The older u-joint driveshafts are the hardest sometimes. Just oil and heat,oil and heat,will finally come out! Be carefull if you have to remove strut coil sleeve and not damage coil assy or strut itself,if able to repair without removing sleeve is better! If have to remove sleeve,DONT reuse. Install new one with silicone,must be flush with strut inner sleeve or about .001 clearance. Use straight edge to align,must use wood block to install. If not right armature plate wont operate correctly. Manual very precise on this.

 

I try that! another question about the rear strut assy. The upper and lower bushings are completly gone but I can't fine a replacment bushing, are these bushings made into the retainers?

 

Bushings are available, 8 bushings if you are talking about stabilizer, Also upper and lower a-arm bushings available.

 

The bushings I'm talking about fit inside the upper and lower "eye" of the rear strut mounts. Just like a leaf spring bushing. All that was left on my polaris was a little rotted rubber and the metal sleeve that the bolts go through.

 

Well I just ordered about $1,500.00 in parts from Dennis kirk, Ebay, bike bandit, and all ***** racing. I should get the parts late next week then it's go time!

Thanks for all your help

 

when you refer to the rear strut i assume you are meaning shock with spring assy. i replace mine with bushing/rubbers from the parts store. had to carefully grind some rubber off them to get them the right size.