Getting closer:




Thats the #60 chain from the clutch driven down to the secondary shaft that will drive the fwd output (to the left) and then the rear sprocket.



All three sprockets visible here.



Overhead view. Everything lines up, now its weld the sprockets to the hubs, grind a little bit more off the big driven sprocket for a bit better clearence with the swing arm, then add in a number of frame reinforcements, some for where i need clearence for the clutch, then for the structure for the pillow block bearings.

 

the above is the new frame rail and reinforcements.



clutch clearences



Lack of clearence of the air filters, i think i'll redo the mounting for the carb and pull them closer to the motor (i can gain at least an inch, possible 1.5" which would do wonders).

Plan tomorrow is to finish tightening down all the bearings, set the sprockets on the shafts, tap the shaft for a bolt for the driven clutch, then start playing with the air filters and try to get something to fit.

 

Progress from the night:



the new carb to reed adapters, hopefully it will pull the carb closer to the motor, all it is is just 1.5" exhaust tubing miters to form a 40* angle,



drilled and tapped the driven clutch shaft, bit of a pita, but i was able to get it dead center.



The new brake line, i ended up cutting it while chopping the frame rail stupid me, but would've had to do it anyway looking back and how much i moved everything around.

 

Finished carb adapters, gain about a 1/2", dropped the height a bit to so now i can change needle height without pulling the carbs, installation/removal is ten time easier too, also installed new rubber boots:



the new air filter adapters:







they are made out of 2.5" exhaust tubing and some thin steel plate (cant remember how thick off the top of my head), welding went well, considering i'm doing this with the most basic of basic $200 fluxcore self shielded welder, the spatter is a bugger thou, but it works and the local canadian tire has tips and wire and open till 10pm every night lol. I will be connecting them to the carbs with radiator style hose, then i will be glueing the hose to these adapters as insurance (i have to play with the clamps, i have a couple big wide ones that may work inplace of having to use two on each setup).

approximate new locations of the air filters:



They clear the plastics, barely, but i will have to build a couple 90* elbows for everything to fit. The rear plastic is going to have to be trimmed a lot to clear the new clutch location, and i should be able to reuse the previous clutch cover with a few mods to compensate for the larger diameter clutch, center to center didn't change all that much, i will have to make some new mounts though. I also will have to change the mounting locations for the ignition module and coils, so needless to say this tranny replacement has been largest piece of the puzzle so far as everything has changed.

The goal now is to have this running thursday at the latest i want to have it running for wednesday and test runs on thursday hopefully, reason being is i head out on holidays on friday and i wanna take this with me , so fingers crossed, as i have some extra time right now.

 

From yesterday:

The air filters are done, and installed, i think i may make another angle piece on the center filter so its not so tight against the seat, and i may look at a smaller diameter filter, but for now everything is screwed down tight, i had to cut out the cross brace for clearence for the filters, there was just no way around it. The clutch cover has been modded for some extra length just have to weld it back together, I also got the plastics trimmed for clutch cover clearence, and i layed out the wiring for the relocation of the coils and module that i had to do.

here are the filters, ignore the white crap thats from trimming the plastics:







Last one is something i wanted to try out to see if it works, and so far so good, what it is, is its some 2.5" rad hose i mitred to form the 90* angle you see, then i glue them together, so we'll see if it holds up.

From tonight;

so i got the electric done, brakes bled, clutch cover finished and installed, tightened everything down, installed the pipes hooked the carbs up, i checked for spark, basically got it ready to run, but my neighbors would've loved me if i had fired it up tonight lol. Anyway for tomorrow its tie down all the wires, do a final nut and bolt, confirm the coil wires from the module to the coils are in the right order, make sure theres fuel in it, double check the clearences on the drive belt and then confirm that i didn't miss anything on the jack shaft, and lastly had oil to the 4wd gearbox.



the clutch cover, turned out better than before, its a little more comfy and not so much in the way as i slimmed the profile a bit.



The relocated module and coils, they were under the seat before.

 

Soo its running and back together . Everything clears and is running true. Heres a quick crappy cell phone vid:

YouTube - ‪Frankenquad's new tranny‬‏

The throttle response is good (stumbling in the video would indicate air flow issues, but we'll see what it does with a full load), starts good, 4wd works perfect (no binding).

Anyway, i've come across 3 problems when i was playing with it on the jack stands/loading it. The first one is a simple fix, is that the #60 main drive chain has a messed up link somewhere and catches/rides up the top sprockets and jams things up slightly, so i'll first swap out the master links (had to use a half link and a master link). The other is the gear box for the 4wd output has a small leak somewhere, so i gotta see where its coming from, but it could be from spillage when i put oil in it, but its an easy fix.

The second is this:



Basically thats way to much. What i did was after i loaded it i sinched it down as tight as i could as i felt the chain jumping when i was loading it, and I knew i'd have so issues with the chain loosing at full bump, but not this much. So I have two things i could do, the first would be to rig up a tensioner on the bottom of the swing arm (i would have to build a skid plate), or slide the shaft backwards to a point so that the chain is about to tighten when the susension compresses.

I'd personally go the tensioner route(fair bit of room to do this) as i'd hate to drill more holes and take everything apart, anyone have any thoughts? I wanna try to get this taken care of tomorrow/saturday as there a atv sled pull/mud bog on sunday and i would love to go try it out (i'd do a bunch of test runs at the farm on saturday).

 

So now it is an "eccentric drive". I don't have the answer, but that looks like the early Polaris design.

 

Yeah that's what it would be, on another site that I'm posting this info on someone posted a link to HPD that shows a basic chain tensioner setsup, so Ill probably go that route.

 

So I came up with a tensioner this morning just like the hpd one, and went to a local mud bog/sled pull to do the sled pull. Anyway the tensioner works alright, but isn't putting enough pressure on the chain, and the drive sprocket will jump every now and then. Heres a what it looks like:



So i was to get a few runs in prior to the pull . . . . its crazy, thats all i can say. The gear change seems to have made a difference too. for the sled pulls . . . . well it was going good till this happened to the front and rear chains:





So I'm upgrading the rear drive chain and front drive chain to #60 all the way around as the #50 just will not stand up. This will be a bit of a pain as i have to exactly drill the sprocket to match the old rear sprocket, then i will most likely have clearence issues with the heavier chain.

 

So i got the sprockets swapped out and the chain upgraded on the rear, i'll leave the front at the #50 size for now, as i believe the master link snap clip fell out and is why the chain came apart. I also redid the tensioner so its under the swing arm, and built similar to a mountain bike tensioner. I've done some playing and everything is holding up, other than keeping a few little things tight its working good. From a tuning standpoint, talking with an old sled guy he said i need more rpm before engagement, so i'll look at a different spring and possibly lighter weights. For gearing i've tried a few different combos and i need to gear it down some more so that it doesn't bog down as much on take off on high traction surfaces. Other than i got the rear axle bearings changed, and the next maintence item is to swap out the brake master cylinder as the current one is leaking and tightening things up isn't making the leaks go away, that ang i want to get an all metal one from a later model scrambler. Anyway heres a few pictures:





The new rear sprocket



new sprocket installed, i ended up eliminating the chain guard as it is no longer big enough lol.



New tensioer



Everything installed.

So ove the next week i'm going to play with the gearing and clutching and see how well i can get it, andd if all goes well and i get it running like it should, i'll take it the rosemary mud bog and toss the paddles on and give it a run int he mud .