I'll ask the dealer! THX!!

CW

 

You DEFINEATELY NEED longer studs!!!

With the steel rim studs, I don't have four threads on each stud holding the rims on!!!!
Not a big deal, $20 and less than an hours work and the longer studs are installed!

Thanks guys!!!

CW

 

yes you will need diffent studs and lugnuts. as stated above you will need acorn nuts.

steel rims if came from the factory that way will need new studs that are longer as the alum rims where the stud holes are is thicker than the steel rims, and if you use your orginal studs with alum rims the lugnut will grab alittle bit then strip out. evon with the new studs. do not torq them to 90ft lbs you will likly strip out the lugnut and or the stud. go round 40 ft lbs.

 

UPDATE for posterity:
The longer studs are at least 1/4" longer, maybe 3/8" longer.

If your Sportsman came with steel rims and your swapping to alloys, you DEFINITELY NEED extended studs!!!

Installing the Alloys on the steel length studs geve me less then FOUR complete revolutions of the lug nut to snug. Alloys reguire nearly twice the torque as a steel rim. Only having 4 threads in the nut will not do!

Because of the width of the Big Horns, I went with spacers to fit them mountied on the 12" Polaris Crusher rims and 26" Maxxis Big Horn tires. (26x9x12F and 26x12x12R tires)
Just a side note, the longer studs WILL work on the 1" spacers.
I decided to leave the shorter steel rim studs with the spacers. At first I was concerned because the end of the stud is below flush in the lug nut. The top of the lug nut is about .010 below flush on the 1" thick spacer. So the nuts that came with the spacers are quite tall. In counting complete revolutions until snug I get almost 11. With the longer studs and alloy rims and Polaris correct Alloy nuts, I get just over 12 complete revolutions until snug. Both get almost a revolution more to a torqued spec. So I am no longer worried. Here is a couple pictures for ya:







CW

 

They look good...

John

 

they should work with stock studs.....make sure they turn at least 6 or 7 revolutions before they get tight........steel wheels used a flat base nut....the aluminun used a cone type nut.....they are about 25 bucks a set (16 nuts) from the dealer

 

TRUST ME, If your switching from stock steel rims to stock alloys, will NOT WORK!!! I can not comment on after market rims, they may be thinner. I still think longer studs would make for a safer install!!!

I got three to four turns max of the nuts with Steel length studs and Polaris Crusher alloys.

CW

 

Did you only need spacers in the front? Were they rubbing without the spacers or just real close?

 

The front was making solid contact with the side lugs. They would still turn, but obviously they where too close.

The back would turn, but was less than a 1/8" clearance at the lugs. I put spacers on both ends.

CW

 

I am convinced it depends on what rims you buy. I replaced my stock steel wheels (500HO) with STI Aluminum rims and there is plenty of thread exposed for the [Acorn replacement] lug nuts.