Scrambler 500 back fire and popping
#1
Ok guys I have a 99 scrambler 500 I picked up I had to replace the stator, the starter and the starter relay, after replacing the stator I got spark back and got it to run but it ran like crap, so I rebuilt the card. Now it runs better but not 100%. It will start up just fine with the choke off but if u add choke it won't start and if u add it when it is running it cuts right off that's the first thing. Now the other thing is when it is a ideal is runs fine when u give it full power it takes sometime and it starts back firing in the carb and boggs down and pops. I have checked the lobes on the cam and they are in speack with want the book says it is. Is their timing on the stator and flywheel or could it be something else. The book says to check timing but it also said its a nonadjusting stator don't understand that. And the bike sounds like its sucking in all air from somewhere or is this normal. Please need some help. I'm out of ideas. Thanks
#2
Welcome to the forum! If you're sure the cam specs out and the carb is not the problem(plus have the new stator marks lined up) then it's a possibility it could have sheared the lower timing chain sprocket key way and could jump timing this way causing the backfiring,etc. Guess when I hear of backfiring on a 96-2000 model 500 engine,I automatically think cam shaft because I replaced so many of em. You can pull the right side plate on the head and the 14 mm timing check bolt on the recoil housing, pull the recoil until the intake valve rocker arms come up and the upper cam sprocket locating pin is straight up(center of the head) and check through the timing port that the TDC mark on the flywheel is lined up with the case mark first. Plus you can pop the front panel off and disconnect the black wire from the limiter module down in front of the steering post and see if this might be the problem. Plus could be as simple as an intake manifold crack,but these were not prone to do this often.Another thing is the crank seal behind the front clutch(doesn't happen often) but could ave popped out. Will affect two strokes more than the 500 four stroke,but could cause problems and make a mess. Plus you say sucking noise? Could be exhaust leak or even a head gasket,but you should be able to tell quick if this was the case. OPT
#4
If you DIDN'T remove the stator mounting plate and only replaced the stator,then you wouldn't have affected the timing on the stator end of it,but still could have jumped timing on the lower sprocket key if it had sheared.! OPT
#6
Unless it was an aftermarket stator,it should have had a small line on the plate that lines up with the case mark for timing(or on certain models you have to make punch marks to line up the oem plate if you remove it! It is adjustable to a small amount. Worst case scenario IF every thing from the cam,sprocket,carb,etc check out you can see if the old plate has a mark on it plus if it has a mark on the case and transfer the stator to the old plate. Some did have a timing mark ,some didn't according to year model! OPT
#7
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#8
The other mark will be on the engine case OR if if it didn't have a mark you were supposed to mark the case in line with the stator plate line! Check out all the other things first(especially the limiter wire) and leave this until last. Plus valve clearance is .006 intake and exhaust. Keep us updated. OPT
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