Hi I'm thinking of getting a clutch kit for my 2001 polaris scrambler 400 I'm looking at one for 350$ it is a comet drive clutch this is what it says

Polaris Scrambler 400 2x4, 2000 2001 2002 Comet Drive Clutch - 218875A - NEW

New Comet 218875A 103HPQ Drive Clutch for Polaris ATVs

The 103 HPQ allows for a quicker shift out and a greater top end speed. Reported performance enhancements of 25% over the OEM clutch with performance kits is typical.

The gains in the 103HPQ ATV clutch is in the larger diameter pulley and the greater sheave angles, giving more ratio and less wear on the belt and sheave faces. Greater degree angle of sheaves allows less resistance of moveable sheave allowing smoother up shift because the moveable face is pushing the belt instead of pinching the belt to the outer diameter of the clutch. With greater degree of angle less cam arm weight is required, causing less wear on belt, pulley faces and cam arm bearings. Also faster back shifting which reduces sheave wear on the driven unit because you do not have as much torsional tension to over come the weights in the drive system. This results in a reported performance enhancement of up to 25%.


Recent testing has determined that the Comet 103HPQ will fit all Polaris models - this clutch does not have the EBS feature but will fit models with EBS. Operator can use this clutch but will not have the EBS (Engine Braking) feature.

This clutch comes factory calibrated to engage at 2650 RPM. It comes with 214651A1 Cam Arms and a 203473A Spring. Recommended for normal altitudes (below 4000 feet)

Will this be a good clutch for more top end with out sacrificing the bottom end
What do some of you guys think of this clutch
Can some body explain to me how a clutch works and the components of it and what different springs will do

 

contact RCR racing"rick ritter" as he is real good with the polaris 2 strokes.

 

What modifications have you made to your Scrambler? Usually you will want to start making changes to your primary spring, weights, secondary spring and helix when you add a different diameter exhaust pipe, different size carb, different compression ratio head, cylinder porting, different tire size and gearing.

From my experience you're best bang for buck would be experimenting with primary springs with a different stall speed and shiftout speed. Sometimes when you make modifications to the machine it will alter the power curve. On a manual clutch quad you control when the clutch engages but on a PVT quad the primary and secondary clutches do this for you. The primary spring will have 2 numbers, a stall speed and a shiftout speed. The stall speed determines the RPM that the motor reaches before the clutch engages and you take off, while the shiftout RPM determines your max RPM that the clutch will allow you to rev to.

If your stock spring has a stall of 30 and a shiftout of 120 then you might see a performance improvement by raising the engagement RPM (stall speed) and max RPM's reached (shiftout) by going with a primary spring of something like 45/130. These are just numbers that I pulled out of the air for an example, I don't know what your Scramblers spring is rated at.

Primary springs usually cost between $25 and $30 which is a better "bang for the buck" than a $350 clutch kit IMO.

 

Thanks for the in put how easy is it to change speings

 

The motor is also bored .020 over I believe it has aftermarket reeds

 

Loosen the 6 small bolts and the bigger bolt in the center and take all 7 of them out. Pull out the old spring, put the new spring in and then install the cover with the 7 bolts. Be sure and torque them to the proper specs.


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Don't forget to line up the x on cover and spider. You can see the x in photo above keeps clutch in balance.

 

My god thats a clean clutch. Why did you have to show me what they should look like.

 

Thank's, I don't really let my clutches get very dirty because I'm usually changing springs, weights, belts, rollers and even secondary clutches on a weekly basis during the racing season. I also have a couple of different clutches set up for different types of racing that I do so that I can switch them out in a hurry if need be.

 

What's the best set up if I'm running carbon reeds. A stiffer primary spring and stock secondary spring and the motor is bored .020 over and an hpd pipe