both coloured leads are side by side on the distribution panel

which coloured lead is the positive power lead

is the left side coil connections supposed to be reversed in the panel

gray are connected up above , brown connected down below

my 1st time dealing with these hilliard coils

will check for power output on all 4 connections after dinner

 

Gray is the hot wire,Brown is the ground.

 

thank-you very much

 

well isn`t that just a condundrum
i just rebuilt the left side hub assembly , coil is getting power , tested it at dist panel

another question OPT
the hilliard coil itself , the wires come out from the coil on 1 side , which side do the exit wires face, towards the strut or towards the hub , i am at a loss on this 1

when i was testing the hub engagement ( all 4 wheels off the ground ) set carb to high idle , 4wd switch on , no axle power to the left side wheel ( i boo boo`ed the coil some how )
even with the 4wd off , the right side wheel is still being powered ????

took a small sledge hammer to the tire to try and force the clutch to dis-engage ( 4wd , tranny in reverse ) used small sledge to whack the tire in forward rotation , no luck

i read this article clearly
ATV Obsession • View topic - How to get 4 wheel engine braking on a Polaris

i cannot remove the right side hub with the clutch engaged

 

i went through your earlier post about this issue
http://forums.atvconnection.com/pola...-awd-coil.html

very informative

then i read through this article , it just looks to me he used waaayy too much silicone on the coil/seal
AWD Hubstrut Hilliard Clutch Troubleshooting/Diagnoses - Polaris ATV Forum

or is this article correct

other articles that i have read , states not to get the sealant on the white part of the coil , which needs unrestricted access to the seal sleeve to magnitize it properly

 

You need enough rtv to hold the coil and sleeve properly on the strut casting,a little too much was used on the face of the coil,BUT this is just over the plastic face of the coil which shouldn't hurt. The TWO places the armature plate are magnetized to are the face of the coil sleeve and the lower strut casting where the coil slips over. A little excess silicone shouldn't stop this from magnetizing. A lot of times people catch wear too late when they try to rebuild the strut,AFTER damage has been done to the lower strut casting from the grinding down by the armature plate on the casting itself. When this happens you might as well order a new strut assembly! Check that this place is smooth and thin,NOT ground down or you can have problems on holding the armature plate tight.

 

thanks for the info
if worst comes to worst , i will just dis-assemble both struts ( meaning the hilliard coils and sleeves )
and just bite the bullet , and take them both to the polaris dealer , and have the dealer install new coils and sleeves
they had a strut jig made for this very purpose

 

SUCCESS!!!
took the hub off and realized that i tapped the seal sleeve in too far
with a 5 pound sledge hammer and a special punch i was able to gently tap the seal sleeve back out to where it is supposed to be sitting ,
and now i have full magnitized seal sleeve , some how i managed to bend the armiture plate , good thing i had a spare 1 , i now have full 4 wheel drive
now to free up the right side brake caliper that is sticking , a large c-clamp will do the trick
and completely bleed out the brown crap out of the lines that was jamming the caliper piston outwards

thank-you OPT!

 

Easy with a 5 pound sledge! All it usually takes is a 1x4 and a regular hammer to knock the sleeve on a little at a time until you have the face of the sleeve flush with the inner strut pole. Glad you've got it going..

 

OPT, you is da wizard ! ! !