I just bought a 93 sportsman 350 after jacking up the front wheels I noticed the front left wheel had play when I hold the wheel at 12 and 6 oclock so I replaced all of the bearings and cups thinking they were worn out,it still has play when I look to see where the axle comes through the strut this is where the play is coming from,,the cups fit the strut tightly,you can watch the outer magnet cover move up and down a little,what I don't understand is if the bearings are new,shouldnt it hold the axle from moving this way.anyone have this happen before and what is the fix,,,thanks Mike

 

I'd check u-joints for wear along with the seal sleeve and the axle shaft itself for any damage. Plus the hub nut has a "rolling torque" method on this model. Most of the time 20 pounds is what I came up with using the old nut.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse If you don't have a manual on this here's a link a to a pdf service manual. Index of /ORV Manuals/Polaris/1985-1995 - All Models

 

thank you for the input,I looked at the shaft for wear and all bearings fit tight going over the shaft end,I do see play in the seal sleeve when I move the wheel up and down,it did go on tightly when I removed the sleeve to replace new magnet.it acts like the two inner bearings are not seating in the cups tightly in turn no holding axle at a 90 deg. angle from strut,I will replace seal sleeve and see what happens and see if I can take a short video clip if the issue remains....thanks

 

old Polaris tech,,after looking at parts view again,I see the steel flange that the seal sleeve attaches to ,it has two notches on it where the magnet wires travel through,is this where you tighten the flange on to the strut?I will see if it is loose also whan I tear down again

 

Then the sleeve needs to be replaced as it held on by blue rtv sealant.Coil damage can occur if you're not careful. Look at the pdf manual link I gave you on the first post. The seal sleeve had to be driven off with out damaging the strut casting and the new one driven on with a block of wood. Clearance is crucial between the face of the sleeve and inner pole of the strut. Manual shows you step by step on how to do this.

 

I will order a new seal sleeve and replace it ,,I had it off when I replaces the coil and set the new coil in sleeve with grey silicone ,but I don't believe the seal sleeve is the wobble,too much play, issue,I don't know if I can download a video on this site will see tomorrow ,thanks again for the imput

 

Keep us updated as to what you find out.

 

ok took left front hub apart again,after removing bearing sleeve,and destroying new coil magnet I just installed,i see the steel nipple that comes off strut which has the round edge on it,seen the notch where the magnet wires run through,took hammer and brass drift and tightened it tapping it like a nut clockwise,reassembled hub without seal sleeve to check for play,yeaaaa no more wobble,,now spend on another new coil and seal sleeve and I think we will be ok,,old Polaris tech I when I reinstall the bearings on this do I need to grease them or does the type f tranny fluid that im putting in hub lube them...thanks again Mike

 

No grease on the bearings in spite of a few Youtube videos that show it. When every things back in place and you reinstall the hub,this hub flex nut has a "rolling nut torque" listed in the manual that may be a little difficult to get. Best to torque to 20 foot pounds and check that the hub is snug and rolls easily. This torque setting is what I usually ended up with anyway. Use only Polaris Demand Drive Plus hub fluid. Atf was used on early models until the better fluid came out.Just fill it through the allen screw hole in the hub,turn to 4 o'clock position to drain the excess out,then replace the screw.

 

thanks a lot for the help,parts on the way,this time no rtv on the coil magnet correct,just sealed at strut and where wires go in