hello,

have an 02 scrambler 500 working on. has a new ignition and new battery. was running fine for a couple weeks.

now when I turn the key nothing. battery still has 12.8v. no lights, no gear indicator light, no cranking. have replaced the ignition thinking that was problem, was not.

not sure where to go next? ok to jump solenoid with 12v on the red wire and see what happens?

thanks for any suggestions.

 

Sealed circuit breaker supplies power to lights,ign switch etc. Located up from the battery. Slice the pouch open if you don't have current going into and out of the red wires on the pouch. Circuit breaker is available at most auto stores. Item #3 on the break down. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
Looks like this.

 

I found two of them. one has power in and power out, other has no power to either side.

One was next to the battery other was in the front.

I ordered a service manual. Just fishing around until it arrives.

 

The one closest to the battery is the 20 amp main circuit breaker. The one under the front panel is a 10 amp circuit breaker for the fan motor. It powers up when the ignition is on. Service manual is the best $ you can spend on your atv.If the 20 amp breaker has power on each side,plus has a new battery and ignition switch,problem could be a short in the left emergency on/off switch or wiring connector or harness.Or may be a simple bare wire under the front panel.Manual will come in handy on electrical trouble shooting.

 

well I have power at the first circuit breaker. got my manual. here is where I am at.
Key On....no crank and no lights
13v at battery
13v at solenoid in
turn key, no 13v to solenoid jumper
connect 13v to solenoid jumper from battery and crank and have spark
13v to both sides of circuit breaker
13v to red #3 on ignition switch. when jumped to last connector engine cranks and
has spark
13v to second to last connector lights work


I have three brand new ignition switches from the same ebay seller. When I try to check continuity between the positive and the starter solenoid wire, I do not get it with the key turned. I also do not get continuity when in the on position for the lights.

Are aftermarket switches known for being crap? I have three of them now and cant figure out if this should be anything else.

Also, what do you do when you cut the bags and they were not leaking as part of the problem?

thanks for any help.

 

Never used any aftermarket switches only oem Polaris. Check that you still have power to each side of the main breaker with the key on. This breaker can get hot quick also and trip. Check that the small red wire from the solenoid has continuity or just run a jumper wire from the solenoid to the ignition switch and see if that's the problem. I just either replaced the pouches as a wired kit or if I was out of sealed systems and just had the individual breakers,I just used silicone inside the pouch over the breaker and taped it up.

 

I got the polaris switch, same result.

I have 13v at both sides of the main circuit breaker.

Solenoid wire has continuity. Even if it didnt, I still should have headlights with key on. I can jump from the hot wire on the ignition and the solenoid works fine, with spark.

shaking my head with this one.

 

bad connection under shut off switch. pulled my hair out on this one.

any ways to fix this? thinking of removing the pins, blowing them out with compressed air then making sure they are bent enough to make connections.

 

Be careful when using compressed air. There are usually small o rings in the connector housing. You'll never find them if you lose them.

 

Aluminum foil or stripped wire can take out slack if it is loose. Also check for corrosion or rust. They are sneaky and can inhibit electricity from crossing over.