Hello, let me first apologize, I see a lot of posts about electrical, but I have not found one specific to my model or issues. I will give the long version of what is going on. In case something I say from other problems triggers a fix for what I am doing. I am a maple syrup producer and need my Polaris back super bad as it hauls my sap out of the woods. Last year, I had an electrical issue where I lost all power. I forgot about needing the 4 wheel drive ATV for sap collection until recently. I bought a new headlight switch and key switch as they both had gone bad. The key switch was hard to turn and the headlight switch was corroded pretty bad. I put both on, had a fully charged battery and no power still. I pull started the machine to see if I had 4 wheel drive, which I did not. After I parked the machine, I had power to everything but 4WD. I parked it again and now I have nothing. For a while, with the key switch on, my circuit breaker was tripping. I disconnected a red/w wire, turned the key on and it went away. I reconnected the wire, turned the key on and no breaker trips, but now I don't have power in that wire, when I did before. I have no power down to the front tranny switch, which I checked from reading other posts. I think the first thing I need is power back up on my dash (Neutral light, oil light) and then proceed from there to my 4WD issue, unless I was to get that back. I have power up to the key switch, but not sure where to look after that. I have studied my wiring diagram so much, I think my eyes are crossing. Thank you for any help that anyone can give me.

 

Jut replace the 20 amp circuit breaker if you haven't already done so. Just slice the sealed pouch open. they can get weak with age,corrode in the pouch and trip at any time.Any auto store has them. Awd has to have 12 volts constant along with the lights,instruments,etc.

 

I have 12 volts after the CB, and 12 volts up to the key switch. I should have been more clear on that. I am testing everything with a meter and not a test light. You know, I am so desperate right now (have sap to collect) I re read my post several times to make sure I was detailed enough, and left that out! OUCH. I do have an extra CB on hand that I can change out with, but seems like that is not needed. I must say though, I said a little prayer hoping that OPT would respond. Read some of your other posts and you know your stuff!

 

If the circuit breaker tripping ceased when you pulled the red wire from the switch,then I'd replace the switch if you've ohmed it out and shows bad or if it's good, check down into the harness running under the steering post for any shorts/bare wires as this is one on the most likely places for them. Even if it's in a protective loom wires can short out or break.Wiring problems are a pain and sometimes a slow process to find the solution. Even the left control switch wiring and connectors especially the emergency kill switch can short out causing problems. Plus you can pull the black wire from the cdi and see if it helps along with the black wire from the reverse limiter module. Item #31. http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...2000&fveh=5494

 

A quick question on tracing wires, I see in the schematics that I should have a group of wires come together that should all be hot. Is it possible that the connection for all of these is bad? I will trace it down and try to do some jumping if I can find it. Wanted to know if you have seen this before.

 

May not be all the wires,but yes there can be one bad apple in the barrel so to speak if one wire is broken internally or has a bare spot shorting to ground or a bad connection. May take a little time to ohm wiring out,plus running a jumper is what most people would do if they find the problem wire. Re read the first post again. Red/white wires are an auxiliary wire that's only hot when the ignition switch is on. If this helped when you pulled it,this would be the first group of wires I'd trace.

 

OPT, would you know, on the schematic, the red/w wires coming from the headlight switch, are those suppose to be grounds? I thought those were a continuation of power from the Red/B that come from the key switch, after the Red/B go through the headlight switch. Am I reading that correctly? Mine are grounded and thinking that could be the issue.

 

The only ground wire on a Polaris is brown. Red/white should not be grounded. Left control switch as I mentioned also can short out.I had plenty of these do that. A mess usually when you tear one apart to find shorts. I just replaced them as most shops did. Key switch on,emergency kill switch in on position,the red/white should have power. The 250 manual I have shows this test.

 

Well, then I think I found the wires I need to trace. I unplugged the connector to the left switch, and I have a 12.8v reading going from the red/b to the red/w. I then used the test light (not sure why) and could light the light. If I go from a normal ground to the red/b I also get a 12.8 reading. I will tear into it and let you know what I find.