Can some one post a clear pic of where the vent lines go on the carb of a 95-98 250 Trailboss?

 

Polaris made this too complicated when they installed a tee along with the check valve that tied into the vents.Get rid of the tee along with the check valve. Just run a simple overflow tube from the carb bowl down past the skid plate. ALL upper vents are atmospheric vents.Run separate vent tubes,zip tie around the throttle cable or choke cable to where they terminate under the back of the tank a little.
This is a pic of some of the messed up ones that people have found.

 

That is basicly what I did.I didnt use a check valve.Tied both top vents into the tee and tied it off out of the way.Now my problem is I cant get it to idle right or return to idle after gassing it.Air fuel mix doesnt seem to change much.Thinking a kit and cleanning is in the near future.Any Ideas?

 

Probably would help with a cheap carb kit,but before I did that I'd at do a compression check on any two stroke just to see where you stand. Good compression should be 120 psi or more. Anything below 100 then you'd be wasting your time just on the carb alone.

 

Fresh top end.30min run time.So I think a kit is next step.What you think?

 

Fresh top end. Then get after the carb kit. Several places online for these cheap kits. Trail Blazer Trail Boss Carburetor rebuild kit (SKU 03-401) Carb Rebuild Kit Repair Polaris 1996 2000 Trail Blazer 250 2000 Xplorer 250 | eBay

 

I have a Moose brand coming.I have used them before

 

Got the kit in.Now I am having trouble getting it adjusted.
1.what is the best way to get the enrichinger (choke) set right
2.it doesnt want to drop to idle as fast as I would like
3.I have something shorting out the kill switch and ignition.Cant shut it off since I put the plastic back on.Bet I have too long of bolt touching something.Which bolt is closest to anything that would cause this?

 

Carb air screw usually about 1-2 turns out. Check that the cdi black kill wire is plugged in.Plus could be an on/off emergency switch short. Just trace the wiring from the ignition switch,cdi and left control wiring to the circuit board.As far as the choke,should have a 10mm lock nut that you can loosen and turn the choke shaft in or out to get about 1/8" free play at the choke lever then tighten the lock nut. Make sure the throttle doesn't have too much slack or idle can be a problem if the etc contacts in the throttle housing touch. No more than 1/8" free play at the thumb throttle,no free play at all is usually fine on these older models.If you still have an erratic idle,wont idle down fast and the crank seals weren't replaced when the new top end was done,leaking crank seals could be the problem.Worst one to have problems was the seal behind the drive clutch.

 

Unplugged the rev limiter got the switch working.Still not idling right.What is the best way to test for bad crank seals.Just do a comp test and see how long it holds before dropping?