Ok I got a 250 trail boss that I have went through the carb completely and still will not start. If I put a little gas in the back of the carb and it will fire up and run with no issues until the pool of gas is gone from the back of the carb. Yes it does have gas and it is flowing. I did check the that it is letting fuel in to the bowl and it does shut off but this has a different style float then I am used to. is there a way to set them and if so how. Thanks in advance.

 

basically when you tip the carb upside down to set the float you just want it to be set level.

 

Ok I posted too soon. I played with the floats and got it going. Now it will not go in to FWD the shaft on the trans has a lot of play in it. I got it in gear once but can not get it back in again. This is about how all my projects go these days. Is there a bushing that can be replaced?

 

Here's a good pdf link to set your float level right along with checking out the carb jets,etc. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...,d.aWw&cad=rja
Need to know what year model 250 Trail Boss you have as shift forks did change and were the main problem on shifting on certain models.Older models had pinned on shift forks that could move,later models were milled from a solid block of steel.

 

It is a 1999

 

I was wrong it is a trail blazer 250 1999

 

Trail Blazer has the single shift fork,not the double one like the Trail Boss does. On this I'd check for excessive play at the transmission lever(belcrank) and the rod ends also. If high range engages/tries to engage at the far end of travel,you might loosen both rod ends 10mm lock nuts and while in neutral turn the linkage rod to where the shift lever moves a little to rear of the shift slot center then tighten the lock nuts. May or may not help on high engagement. If it doesn't then you could have worn parts in the gear case such as the high/reverse engagement dog gear causing the gear clash. Anytime you split a gear case always replace the chain also. Item #6 is the gear that can give trouble along with a worn shift fork,plus check for any wear on the on reverse and forward gear.Hope it doesn't come down to splitting it.Dirt Cheap Yamaha & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

It does have a lot of play at the shift shaft at the top of the trans. Is there a bushing there or a way to adjust it? I did get it to go in to gear once and rode it around for 5 to 10 min with no issues but once I took it out of FWD it will not go back. I did try to adjust the rod length but that did not fix it.

 

No replaceable bushing in the case. If you look at the breakdown it's just an o ring,washer and circlip holding the shift shaft in the case. The belcrank itself is splined,made out of aluminum and supposed to fit tight over the matching splined shift shaft. It's the weak point of the shift assy and designed that way to keep the shift shaft and internals from damage.Possible the splines have stripped on the belcrank itself causing slack. Just take the nut and washer off and check to see if it needs to be replaced.I've had to replace plenty of these over the years that had shifting problems also.

 

Nope It is sloppy in the case you can move the shaft back and forth. I have a bad feeling about it being the fork. How hard is it to break down the trans to get to the shifter fork? I did read that you might as well do the chain while you are in there. That did not make me feel good either. Of course this is not my bike and I am going to have to call him with the good news that I just rebuilt the carb replaced the handle bar switch(not cheap) and got it running good to find the trans is out. Thanks again for all the info.