So OPT helped me a ton on getting the thing fixed and running.....i. now starts awesome runs great seems to have decent enough power for me anyways.....

Back fires on deaccelartion, now it does seem like it's coming off the motor so I ordered new springs and donut....it was not doing this until a few hours of driving I assume and hope the donut gasket went bad it did not look good when I reused it to begin with ....but what else could cause the backfire....it never has an issue till I let off the gas


Also the 4 wheel drive does not always work.....well it worked twice other 5 times I had to push it out of the hole.......it worked the last time after shutting the machine off and on, got me out of the hole.....tried again front tires refused to spin also I play with the awd switch with no luck

 

Worn asbestos exhaust donuts close to the exhaust outlet can cause it to suck in air and cause back firing. Main jet too lean can do the same thing.On the awd try what a lot of people have done and see if it fixes the problem.

 

4wheel drive seems to be fixed now thank!!!!

Also i had all the lights off in the barn door closed ect...fired it up reved it up and well i hadn't tighten the exhaust nuts enough, i rember thinking oh these are brass nuts so i don't wanna over tighten them, well it was shooting flames from it. Now there is still some back fire but now it seems to be from that little donut, also where do you adjust the carb???
I dont see a screw on the bottom other than the throttle adjustment

 

If the brass nuts were loose I can just about guarantee the asbestos exhaust gasket at the engine is probably blown also and still leaking. Can't remember if you have the 325 or 500 engine.Replace it along with any worn asbestos donut seal.Think the brass nuts torque down to 12 ft pounds. The pilot screw(idle circuit) is under a block off plug at the bottom of the carb. Not really necessary to pull this plug and adjust the screw until after you get the exhaust leaks repaired.Probably wont have to mess with it after its repaired.

 

Gasket was shot, put the old one back that wasnt even bad and fixed!

Now my next question is, well i would be driving along and suddenly the rear brakes would stick, and the only way i could get them to losen up is to take a vice grip and wiggle the foot brake master cylinder, well this worked a few times till finally i loosened the brake line and it had HUGE pressure........I never used the foot brake as it didnt work, and now the brakes work (hand lever only) what was causing the rear wheels to lock up in the first place? and i never rebleed anything after i broke open the line, hand brake seems to be working great still, and have not had an issue again. I would like to get the foot brake working, is this common issue with a failing rear master cylinder? Also again - i NEVER used the foot pedal, thats why im so confused

So,
Rear brakes held up
Vice grip and wiggle the foot brake rod, brakes worked great
drove around did it again hour later
Repeated vice grip
Finally losed line - fluid rushed out
Now brakes all work fine, other than foot brake

 

Hand brake operates the rear brake also. If the rear caliper piston sticks,can over heat and brake fluid pressure can increase. May be time to take it apart,clean it up and install new piston seals.#3. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse Plus if the small rear master cylinder happens to be sticking ,it can do the same thing. Seal kits are available for them also now instead of paying 100 bucks for a new master cylinder.http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-MAGNUM-REAR-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-SEAL-REPAIR-KIT-DR16-/271856922777?hash=item3f4bef7099&vxp=mtr