Thank you. I have a 2003 Polaris 330 4x4 Magnum with no spark. Engine will turn over but not fire. When I disconnect the solid black wire coming off of the CDI box I then have spark. Is the CDI module bad? Will the engine start without that black wire plugged in? Before I parked it, it seemed to be losing power and would not rev up and then finally would not start. Has been sitting for a while and just started working on it again. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated

 

Spark only when you pull the black cdi kill wire can either be a short in the cdi kill circuit itself or possibly the wiring/connectors on the left control switch or ignition switch connector not making good contact or wiring shorts in these areas.The engine can probably start,but you can't kill it without choking it down or plugging the black kill wire back in.Clean the connectors on both switches,use electrical grease and check for any frayed,burnt wiring under the front panel area where the main harness wraps around.This is a common area for shorts because of all the twisting and tuning and stress on the wiring.Not uncommon for ignition switches to short out or the emergency kill switch to have corrosion on the contacts of the slide switch.Slide the on/off switch back and forth also to see if it helps.Clean all connections with electrical contact cleaner,check that the connectors are firmly seated and eliminate one area at a time.If both the ignition switch and left control switch wiring and connectors check out,then could be the cdi at fault.A good manual has several trouble shooting guides on this and can be very helpful.The 330 was also one of the first atvs to use an ecm module that can cause problems also.The manual can help on this also.2003 Polaris Magnum 330 Service Manual PDF Download

 

Thank you very much. I cleaned the on/off switch plug connectors and plug the black cdi wire back in and I have spark. It tries to start. I will buy a new spark plug tomorrow and clean the inside of the switch connections and see what that does. Will update when I have that done. Thanks again, Jeff

 

Just spray some electrical contact cleaner into the left control switch openings and slide the on/off switch back and forth to clean the contacts. Same for the two connector plugs and internal pins of the switch,then use some electrical grease. Don't take the left control switch apart as springs and brass parts can fly out. Make sure the connectors fit snug into the control switch with no play as I've found some that weren't making good contact over the years from vibration and dirt.Something simple as this can keep one from starting.At least you have spark now with the cdi kill wire plugged back in.Hopefully the switch was the main problem.

 

Also if it sat for any amount of time with gas in it, you will likely have to clean the carb, they varnish up real bad and if its trying to start good chance its plugged up

 

Thank you. Cleaned the contacts inside the switch and harness plugs. Installed a new spark plug choked it and it started right up. It will only stay running with the choke pulled out though and will not rev up without trying to die. Carb was taken apart and cleaned several days before as was the fuel tank. All fuel lines blown out also. I think I need to adjust the choke first as it does not stay all the way and has to be held out. What is the best way to that correctly. Also, around the same time I started having problems with it not accelerating properly, the throttle adjuster screw just fell out of the bottom of the carb. I was lucky enough that it fell onto the block and did not loose it. Is there a small jet or spring that the adjuster screw holds in the bottom of the carb? Is there a set position or certain amount it is supposed to be screwed in or is it by ear? Thanks again for the responses

 

Under the choke **** there is a rubber cover that covers a small plastic nut. Pull the cover back,tighten the nut a little. It puts tension on the choke shaft so it won't have to held to keep the choke on. Yes there's a spring on the idle adjust screw. Item #28. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse No set position on the idle adjust. Just turn the screw until you have a steady idle.If you still have carb problems after cleaning,install a carb kit.http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-2003-2006-330-Magnum-4x4-Carburetor-Rebuild-Kit-Carb-Kit-/291487156379?hash=item43ddfd089b&vxp=mtr Kit comes with a new idle adjuster and spring and spring for the choke plunger at the carb.

 

Thank you. I'm going to go ahead and put a carb kit in it. It is poping a little and will not rev up even slightly. Will post again next week with the results when I get it done. Thanks for the help and have a nice weekend

 

Thank you. Installed a carb kit and it started right up and idled. I was able to rev it up but did not drive it. Could not get the idle set. I assume with the residue of carb cleaner it would take a little time. Shut if off. Next day started up but could not get it to idle or rev up at first. It finally idled and when I put in in gear and tried to move it had no power. Fiddled with it a little and shut if off. Today it started right up and seemed to idle a little better after the choke opened. I secured the gas tank and drove it around a couple hundred feet and it tried to die on me. I pulled the choke out and made it back. With the choke pushed in it die immediately. I am thinking I must have not cleaned the inside of the carb as well as I thought. Any thoughts? Thanks

 

I agree if it takes the choke to keep it running,possible stopped up jets.Plus don't overlook the throttle slack. 1/8" slack maximum at the thumb throttle,any more than that the etc contacts in the throttle housing can touch and the machine will die.