Usually when this happens is that people forget to bleed the 10 mm screw on top of the head(in front of the temp sensor) to purge the main trapped air pockets in the system. Plus best to raise the front end with tires of the ground a little and leave the radiator cap off,let it run to get the remainder of air bubbles to come to the top of the radiator.

 

Thanks, I'll try that , I've read that they are hard to get air out

 

Better off asking this in the Yamaha section or getting a cheap manual rather than guessing and throwing parts at it. Plus it should have a good wiring schematic and electrical checks to help you narrow down any problem.https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail....-repair-manual

 

Back to the Polaris, front wheels raised , fill rad, leave cap off, and take 10 mm screw out to purge air, correct? Is this at an idle? And for how long, or can you see bubbles at the rad , thanks again

 

NO.. Bleed the 10mm screw on the head with the engine off!! Open it and allow coolant to flow out for about 15 seconds or so to remove any trapped air.Close the bleed screw, raise the front end,remove the radiator cap and let the engine run and fan cycle on and off a couple times to remove any air through the radiator that may have been missed. Many people overlook this step and it can warp heads,blow head gaskets if engines overheat from trapped air.

 

I bled the ten mm bolt, then lifted front end a bit, started with rad cap off and let it run, bubbles came to top of rad but fan doesn't come on sitting at an idle, I let it run like this for about thirty five minutes, no fan and still bubbles??, do I just need to go longer? Thanks again

 

Fan should have kicked on long before 30 minutes..Right below the radiator cap is the fan switch. Pull the leads back a little and touch leads with needle nose pliers. If the fan comes on,then more than likely the switch has burnt out. Common thing on these switches that were mounted close to the top. The part is NLA from Polaris and online places but you can match one up at any auto supply.http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/252016973962?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

 

Found a cut wire around fan sensor, repaired, now fan comes on when key is turned on, coolant seems to stay where it's supposed to( although some overflowed cause it was to full) question is ... With fan running all the time, is that an issue?

 

Fans running all the time just wears out fan motors. Now that you've found a cut wire,the sensor has probably shorted out(probably the reason the wire was cut) The sensor provides the ground path for the fan to kick on. With it shorted out the fan will run constantly. Cheaper to find a 25 buck radiator sensor than to buy another fan motor when it burns out.

 

Haven't changed sensor yet, but topped coolant, bled out air( I think), fan is always on and coolant still blows out??,do I have bigger problems?