ok, got it. I was just using the dots to help align parallel, along with the alignment pin being in line with crank.. just a double check method I guess.
Kinda hard to see with the engine in at an angle.
so, if I'm off by a tooth, or shown in my second set of pics. then that would probably be my stutter issue.. Just odd that it ran fine and now its bad.
maybe cleaning the carb, etc.. just made the issue noticeable??
or is it possible for the chain to jump.
the tensioner is tight.
Also, I've seen some how to's on chain adjustment.. any recommendations on how to not move the crank..

I really appreciate all that you are doing..
do you have a donate link or anything like that.. I would def.. give to the cause..

 

To be honest with you,since you'd had problems on this I'd start from the beginning.. Pull the flywheel and stator. The crank sprocket mark lines up with the mark at the case bottom. Place the one plated link on this and then the two plated ones on the dots and it's automatically timed!

 

ok, I guess its best.. only a few more bolts that I can break..
was trying not to break it down that far.. but looks like the stator plate should be easy to remove and the other method. I'll have to pick up some locktite 515/518 and an Oring(what size). anything else I need for that job.
I don't have a polaris shop around.. so it usually takes a few days to get parts shipped.. thats why I was trying to stay out of the case as much as possible.

thanks.

 

Another thing I did, was mount the voltage regulator near the Coil pack.
It was just hanging when I got the bike and figured that was a good location.
I didn't think about the EMC the coil might give off.
Also triple checking all my wiring updates.
I added the 4x4 switch, Manual fan override,

I'm just trying small things until I get the stuff to do the chain timing.
Just not ready to go there yet.
If I barely move the cam sprocket and it still appears to be aligned, the T mark will line up.
Hard to explain, I guess it feels like the engine will naturally fall into a position, maybe its going just past TDC and falling into the downward stroke..?
But if I back it up just a hair the mark lines up.
When I back the Cam up a hair, I can hear some compression or exhaust gasing.
hard to find TDC just looking at it.. and without measuring.

 

and forgot to mention. when I replaced the flywheel key. I installed a new plug and ran it for a few minutes.
plug came out black

 

does the CDI box need to be grounded to the coil or is the frame ground good enough for this?

 

Cdi doesn't have to be grounded. Doesn't matter on the location of the coil to the cdi as most of them are relatively close together anyway. As far as cam timing like I mentioned the most accurate way is to time it with the the flywheel and stator off,using the plated links and lower sprocket mark along with the dots and plated links on the cam sprocket. Then you wont have any doubts whether it's timed right or not.. The o-ring is metric,it's actual size I don't know,but a pretty good size o ring and best to get a new one and not reuse the old one as they usually will leak past the plate onto the stator. Item#4.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse On the cam chain timing always remove the tensioner,remove its bolt and spring,get the chain on the sprockets correctly,adjust,check the valves,then install the tensioner back in place,reinstall the tensioner spring and bolt and turn the engine over slowly with the recoil. The tensioner will self adjust and take up slack in the cam chain.

 

I'm pretty sure I have it fixed now.
I polished up the Flywheel with a steel brush, cleaned all of the rust and corrosion from it.. Fired it up and she will run full throttle now with out any sputtering or hesitation.
Amazon what a little rust will do..

I want to thank you OPT for staying in there with me.. I know I had lots of questions.

Now on to fixing the shifter switch.

where is that donate button..
Send me your paypal info.. and I'll gift you some cash..

Thanks again..

 

Sometimes it's the simple things you overlook... I've been looking for that button too,but an IOU is fine..

 

Just to give an update.
I finally took the bike out around the neighbor hood and it ran better, but still had the sputtering issue. Cleaning the Flywheel did help, but didn't solve the entire issue.
So, I broke down and ordered a CAM and exhaust gasket..
I replaced the exhaust gasket tonight and road around. The bike ran must better with no back firing and ran very well until the engine got nice a warm. Then it went back to the old sputtering and dying when letting off the throttle. Will start right back up..
The hesitation doesn't start until over half throttle now, so the exhaust gasket and cleaning the flywheel did help some. I actually got more speed with the new gasket.
But once engine was warm it didn't want to run much.
So, tonight I am tearing into the engine and replacing the CAM and lifters.
I also tested the spark with a light and it was nice and steady.

I'll post an update once I have the CAM in and tested. I should have pics of the CAM lobe etc.. later tonight or tomorrow.