2000 xplorer 400 4x4
#1
I just recently replaced the seals in my water pump. While doing the replacement, I noticed that the output shaft for the impeller has some pits on it. I used some fine grit sand paper to smooth them out and followed up with scotchbrite but there are still some pits. Not sure if that's going to be a problem.
Also after I finished with the seals I acquired a slite oil leak. Think maybe the case-3 gasket might have slid, not sure though. Any tips on keeping that gasket in place? Hoping for some feed back from anyone willing to help Thanks in advance,
Beal
Also after I finished with the seals I acquired a slite oil leak. Think maybe the case-3 gasket might have slid, not sure though. Any tips on keeping that gasket in place? Hoping for some feed back from anyone willing to help Thanks in advance,Beal
#2
If the shaft is pitted too much there's a place on ebay that can repair the counter balncer plus replace the bearing behind the gear. A lot cheaper than replacing the expensive counter balancer shaft assy.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-350l...ZTx0ok&vxp=mtr Easiest way on the gasket is to put a film of Three Bond/Yamabond on the case to hold the gasket in place while you replace the outer case.
#3
If the shaft is pitted too much there's a place on ebay that can repair the counter balncer plus replace the bearing behind the gear. A lot cheaper than replacing the expensive counter balancer shaft assy.Polaris 350L 400 Counterbalance Service w P Bearing and Seals Included | eBay Easiest way on the gasket is to put a film of Three Bond/Yamabond on the case to hold the gasket in place while you replace the outer case.
#4
You need to remove the two bolts and c/b bracket and apply heat on the bearings. I had the shop tool which was a U shaped bracket that straddled the case and had a bolt with inner and outer threads that pulled the c/b up. If you're not going to repair or replace it,just leave it alone and reuse it. Spx or Otc supplied the tools,but can't seem to find them.
#5
Thanks again, I'll be getting to that this afternoon and should be back up and going before nightfall. By the way, if I were to do away with the oil injector, what would be the ratio of the premix I should use. I was told that you cant trust those blasted things, what your recommendation on them?

Beal

Beal
#6
350/400 engine I don't trust over time because they're located right at the front and catch all the moisture and can freeze.The 250/300 pumps are at the rear and usually no problems. Just pull the injector line at the intake manifold,use a 6mm bolt and washer to block off. I'd mix 40/1 with a good synthetic.
#7
Ran into an issue yesterday trying to get the slit nut; off and cut the seal. Have to wait till today to get a new seal before I can reassemble it. Hopefully I can find the seal locally and git er done! Going to try a bearing warehouse close to home,
hopefully they'll have it. Wish me luck! Wahoo! Lol!
hopefully they'll have it. Wish me luck! Wahoo! Lol!
Trending Topics
#8
Once you have it all back together and coolant installed,don't forget to bleed the 10mm screw on top of the head to remove any air bubbles! This is critical as the engine can over heat quickly and cause damage.Many people forget this step..
#9
Its all done and seems to be working fine so far. The "Temp" light did come on but went out once I topped the radiator off. Took it down the road to run it briefly to the railroad tracks access road , which is the only place close to home to run it. It did alright but when I came to a stop it smoked briefly. When I headed back home it ran fine. So I put it on the trailer to take to the buggy bath to blow off all the residual oil/antifreeze. Ill let it sit in the garage and check for any leaks which I haven't seen any as of yet. Ill let you know how it plays out later. Seems to be a little noise (sort of a clicking) that I'm thinking might be piston slap or possibly the water pump impeller. OPT, thanks for the help!


