Baught clean 2006 500 HO EFI.about 125 hours on it. First had to replace fuel pump do to me running it with some stale fuel in it when I bought it. Replaced fuel filter and other fluids. Then somehow during that replacement that blew the relay in the computer for fuel pump. Replaced that. It ran good for about two weeks and now check engine light and engine will stall but not shut off when in high from about 3000rpm and up. Sometime I can get it to go with out stall for maybe 20 seconds. But most the time can't make it 20 yards without it wanting to stall. Doesn't do it much if any when in low. Not at all in reverse. Saw your post about map harness. Made a make shift grommet since other was brittle. Ran great for about 2 times. Replaced wire harness still does it. Replaced grommet as well. Codes 22-45-47-51- show on diagnosis.

 

When you said you replace the wire harness did you replace the complete harness or the map sensor harness repair kit offered here.Only The Best If you replaced the map sensor harness and it still cuts out,check the cps harness routed up under the throttle body for any bare wires that might be touching the starter.That along with the tps harness leading down into the main wire harness for any broken or soft feeling wires. Had shorts in these areas also. Code 22 is usually bogus, 45 still shows to be map sensor or wiring related.Plus don't over look the air temp sensor and wiring in the air box and that the sensor is clean.

 

Did the map sensor repair harness. It first did it when temp changed about 40 deg. Here in PA. Then saw grommet was shot on sensor. Made a grommet from rubber fuel line then ran good for 2 days. Then went to pull out and it was limping again. Made me think it's a bad wire or sensor. I had noticed when doing fuel pump that the temp sensor in box was just hanging there.. I just put back in and had left it alone. Could be that as well. Will also check other wires today. Thanks

 

Could well be the temp sensor wiring,but I'd also recheck your work on the tps wiring if code 45 keeps popping back up after either clearing codes or disconnecting the battery for a couple minutes. I've even had to dig deeper into the main harness past the pig tail ends of the sensor wiring as well several times and found shorts there.Like the manual says 85% of efi problems are in the wiring and at times you just have to take it slow,one sensor at a time.Plus don't overlook the cps wiring also as I mentioned. All it takes is one little bare wire to touch the starter and it will either bog or die also. Frustrating at times..

 

Checked cps and tps wires don't see anything bad. Air temp sensor looked fine. I don't understand why I can run it in low and reverse and be ok. Also no idle issues. But once you put it in high and try to go it starts acting up.

 

I'd recheck fuel pressure also as a process of elimination,even if you replaced the pump earlier. Should hold steady around 39psi. If fuel pump checks out,plus can't find any wiring problem,might be time to pay 1 hr labor charge for Digital Wrench to keep you from pulling your hair out. It can at least tell you what it isn't.. Plus it could even point towards a pdm module fault and not wiring as a lot of the "guts" are in this module along with the ecu(brain box).

 

I have been checking wires and harnesses as you said. I haven't found anything bad yet. Although negative battery cable was a little loose I tightened and now it seems to be running properly. Only issue is that check engine light stays on and same codes keep coming up. The check engine light would only blink when engine would want to stall but would never stay on. now it stays on all the time. I have tried to disconnect positive battery for several minutes and once I reconnect check engine light is still on.. And does a 500 ho efi have a t-bap? Not sure what this would be..

 

Having the battery cables loose could be part of the problem,I'd check charging at an idle plus load test the battery as it also has to be in good shape or can mimic wiring problems.Tbap,map sensor,pressure sensor, same thing. Called differently by different places. Plus the check engine light should come on when you turn the key on,go off when you crank it up. If it stays on,I'd have it on Digital Wrench after you eliminate the other things and if it's still on.Plus have you tried clearing the codes from the display using the left control switch toggle button?

 

No I thought disconnecting battery was only way to clear codes. Didn't see anything in Manila about using toggle button to clear.. I'll try messing with today as well as battery. I know when I baught it in September they had just put new battery and starter on from sitting to long.. Thanks

 

Sorry.. Wasn't thinking on code clearing. Only way to clear codes is to disconnect the battery for 20 seconds as the manual says. Accessing the menu screen is different from year to year,but this is how most are accessed.While in neutral hold the toggle button down and turn the key on and off 3 times leaving the key on the 3rd time. Menu screen should come up and you can toggle through through the sections.Again if codes return after disconnecting the battery,the problem is still there.