Polaris brakes
#12
Master cylinder seals,caliper seals don't do so well sitting up.They dry up,leak down and can suck in air. Try bleeding using a mity vac at the calipers and keep the master cylinder full of fluid while you push the pedal also. Better if you have some help on this. Hopefully you can regain a firm pedal with not too much work. If this doesn't help,depending on model you may need to at least replace the master cylinder seals,possibly caliper seals also.
#13
Well I rebuilt the caliper again and did find a nick in the o-ring so I am sure that was letting it bleed over. Replaced all o-rings and re-bled everything which seems to take forever but finally got all the air out. Drove it around and even with a good peddle it would only slow the machine down. This is a stupid design so I fixed it my way. Took the lines off and took it to a buddy of mine at a hydraulic hose/rubber/and gasket place. Made me up some new lines and made both sides of the caliper work off the rear peddle only. Made a fitting to cap off the line going up to the front handle but with a bleeder to still get air out of front system. Now the front works awesome and by itself, and then the rear peddle works great as well and runs just the rear caliper. It will now lock up the rear wheels if and when I want it to. If this design starts acting up I am going to buy a completely different rear caliper, get a buddy of mine at the machine shop to make whatever bracket I might need and convert it over to a single line caliper. But for now I am good to go. Thanks!
#14
#16
Loosen the brake adjusters at the handle bar to where the cables have slack.You may or may not have to pull the cables out of the lower brake arms.This takes pressure off the brake cam that opens the shoes. Remove the brake drum to get to the shoes and wishbone spring.Have as an assembly,tops fit over the posts,open the bottoms up to slip over the cam.Button everything back up,adjust brakes evenly on the adjusters.