will not start
#11
Nope not good.. Easy to check the valves when you have the head off. Just fill with solvent and see how much seepage. I'd at least check each one,especially the intake valves for any worn sharp edges and for being straight. A good solid bench and just roll the valves and look at the stem. Clean the carbon on the head and valves. If they're not in that bad of shape just lap them with fine lapping compound,replace the guide seals and check again for seepage. Might as well pull the cylinder and check over the piston/ rings and clearances.The manual goes into great detail on this.
#13
May not only be confined to the valves only. Did you hear a lot of air from the crank case vent? Most people listen to the exhaust and also the crank case vent tube or carb depending on how they hooked up the leak down tester. You may get lucky with just the valves,but since you're down this far I'd check out the piston and rings.
#15
You don't have to get all that involved in cutting seats,etc. Just clean the valves up,make sure none are bent,check the intake valve edges to see if they are worn down to where they are really sharp,if so that valve may need to be replaced.Intake valves are softer than exhaust valves.Most of the time I could reuse them. Just clean the carbon from the valve seats. I just used a fine wire brush on my die grinder.Then lap the valves in with fine valve lapping compound. You don't have to use dykem unless you really want to. Install new valve guide seals and reinstall the valves. Check again for any seepage.
#17
Then look in the engine section of this free pdf manual. Has the valve angle specs and more.https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...Z7Rqhg&cad=rja
#19
Must be a different manual than what I have. I'll check my other manuals. Look at Chapter 3 pages 55 through 58. Shows the angles and the cutters needed. The 2008 500 manual I have shows the same thing.


