I started playing around with the scrambler I just bought and I am in the process of redoing all the stupid stuff the previous owner did to the machine. Have to adjust the clutch cover so it doesn't rub, reroute the throttle cable so it's not binding and giving the ETC fits and find a few nuts and bolts to make the plastic all tight on the body again. I got it running and was greeted with a smooth running motor but very loud from the front of the engine. Apparently, when the motor was rebuilt, they cross threaded the brass nuts that hold the exhaust flange to the cylinder and it was loose. I have a new gasket but I am having a tough time taking the cross threaded nut off since the previous owner rounded it off nicely. I'm a pretty quiet person, but I found a few swear words I haven't used in a while and they came out pretty fluently today while trying to remove the nut. Can I just split this thing with a chisel to remove the nut and put a regular nut back on or does it have to be a brass one? I can't get a 6 point socket on this thing since the flange has a recess to it that won't allow the socket to go straight on and it is on the clutch side of the motor so space is limited and make a vice grip tough to get in there.

Thanks,
Mike

 

They used brass in hopes that the brass wouldn't weld itself to the steel stud. Most time they worked unless like in your case some idot cross threaded the nut.Lot of cases the stud threads may be damaged also. Might be just as easier to cut the nut remove the exhaust and use a stud puller to remove the old exhaust stud,then install a new stud and nut.NOS POLARIS 3085326 CYLINDER STUD 440 500 600 BIG BOSS SPORTSMAN STORM | eBay Performance Tool W89413 - Stud Puller Set | O'Reilly Auto Parts These are the best stud puller design tools. You can get these about everywhere.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-3087...BUZSAI&vxp=mtr

 

Thanks OPT,

The stud remover I have, I'm just afraid if I cut the stud to remove the bolt, then I won't have much left for the tool to grab. If I get the nut off, would a steel nut work if I use some anti seize and a lock washer to keep it from rusting into place? I have only taken the flange off when I had the cylinder removed so it was easy to get at the nuts. I am hoping I can free the nut and clean the threads up so I don't make more work for myself.

Thanks,
Mike

 

I just mentioned cutting the nut and removing the other nut and pulling the flange off. That way you either have room to pull the stud,or retap the threads if buggered up and then you're able to replace the nut. Yes a steel nut will work,but I'd use a dab of antiseize after the lock washer is installed if you do.

 

Oops, read that too quick. Makes sense to cut the bolt to save the stud. I was hoping since it is brass, that I can split it with a chisel or get lucky and break it free. I soaked it with penetrant again today and I looked at it closer. It appears that it isn't cross threaded bit just seized from rust when they tried to take it off and they rounded it off and left it that way hoping the nut on the other side would hold. I think I may be able to save the stud but the nut will have to go.

Thanks,
Mike