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2008 Sportsman 500 carb model stator issues?????

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Old Mar 29, 2017 | 06:48 PM
  #11  
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I wouldn't worry about the tach right now only the charging rate. If it just shows battery voltage while running or charges past 15 volts,then it's either the stator or ecm and you're pretty positive on the stator being ok. This is what they look like on the inside and what happens when one bit the dust.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2017 | 08:23 PM
  #12  
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If there is anything you think I should do to test the stator again let me know and I will do it tomm before taking the PCM and see what it looks like inside and wow does that look nasty inside!!!!

Also another problem I am having is I rebuilt the recoil housing and it just pulls and retracts but wont' engage. Any ideas? At first when I rebuilt it and tightened the bolt down it would pull out but wouldn't wind back up unless I loosened the bolt. So I took the bolt out and the steep cup and put a thin metal washer under that cup and tighted it down and then boom worked like a charm except the engagement arm won't engage. What am I missing there.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2017 | 09:24 PM
  #13  
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Do you know if the following PDM / ECM will work on the 2008? Looks the same


2004-2006 POLARIS Sportsman 450 500 Scrambler OEM Surepower ECM PDM 2203348 | eBay


thank
 
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Old Mar 29, 2017 | 11:31 PM
  #14  
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Also what's your thoughts on this diaphragm? It's out of my 04.5 sportsman 500 HO. I am rebuilding the carb on this one for myself and then another one for my neighbors sportsman 335 and his is very flexible where mine here in the pictures is still flexible just has those 2 dimples in it and doesn't keep a nice rounded shape like my neighbors does. also it can spring around on the plastic housing its attached too where as my neighbors is on tight and won't spin.

The reason I am rebuilding my carb is cause it will only idle 100% perfect but when reved up it won't move or create RPMs it will want to die and spit and sputter. So just curious if this diaphragm is still good like it is or if I should just go ahead and replace it.




 
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Old Mar 30, 2017 | 03:40 AM
  #15  
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2008 model shows a different ecm part number than the one you posted for a 2004-2006 model. I'm just going by the part number and it just lists these as using the same one.
Usage : 4011568 Ecm Module

Year Product Model Assembly
2008 ATV SPORTSMAN 6X6 ELECTRICAL, SWITCHES and SENSORS and ECM - A08CL50AA (49ATVELECT086X6)
2008 ATV SPORTSMAN 500 HO ELECTRICAL, SWITCHES, SENSORS and ECM - A08MH50AX/AZ (49ATVELECT08SP500)
2007 ATV SPORTSMAN 6X6 ELECTRICAL - A07CL50AA (49ATVELECT6X6)
2007 ATV SPORTSMAN 450 ELECTRICAL - A07MH46AA/AZ (49ATVELECTSP450)
2007 MIL SPORTSMAN 6X6 MV ELECTRICAL - A07CL50MA (49ATVELECT076X6MV)
Diaphragm is toast and you can buy it separate from the slide. $39.95 at Partzilla is the cheapest I've found.
As far as the recoil put a thin layer of grease under the recoil plate(5),throw away the shim you added,make sure the ratchet and spring are ok. Use blue locktite on the bolt,tighten snug,back off a little at a time until the recoil works properly.Locktite should keep the bolt from loosening.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2017 | 07:33 AM
  #16  
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Thanks for the input! It's greatly appreciated. Partzilla was the cheapest I could find too. As for the recoil I will try a bit more grease to see if it helps. The rachet and spring were brand new with the rebuild kit.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2017 | 08:13 PM
  #17  
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UPDATE-------tach and charging is now working. Pulled the PCM connector off and it was corroided pretty good. so pulled the PCM off and opened up the back and it was nice and clean inside with nothing burnt or corroided, still sprayed it down with some electrical cleaner and then air to dry it out and sealed it back up. Got the prongs on the PCM cleaned up of corrosion as well as the main wire harness plug. Plugged it all back up after putting dyoelectric grease on it all and it works great now. Have the triggle charger going on the battery for the night and will fire it up in the morning and make sure it's still working.

Did notice the weep hole on the water pump is leaking so time to change the seal while I have that side cover tore off.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2017 | 07:08 AM
  #18  
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Saved yourself some bucks if the charging rate is ok also. On the w/p seal I'd use the tool as you take a chance using screw drivers,pliers,etc popping the old seal out. I've had to split a couple engines just to replace the shaft for a couple people that bent theirs doing this. I love short cuts as much as anyone but not on the water pump seal on a 500.Plenty of pics on people that have done this,but I'm sure for a few it didn't work out too well.. Just saying.. http://www.rvservicetools.com/online...&category_id=9
 
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Old Apr 1, 2017 | 10:45 AM
  #19  
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Yup It charges about 14.2-14.5 so I'm happy with that. So far the caltric stator is doing its job as for how long......time will tell.

How often does the impeller need to be changed out with the seal? I will probably pull the cover off and see about the seal before forking out the $110 for the puller and thanks for the link for it by the way incase I need to buy it.

thanks again for the heads up.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2017 | 11:32 AM
  #20  
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Probably cheaper to just have the cover pulled off and seal ready to put in and let a dealer pull it and install a new one if you're close enough to one. I did this for folks all the time in the back of pick up trucks and trailers.Then they hauled the home,hooked things back up and bleed the air out of the system. Pricey tool really for a one time use.
 
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