2001 polaris xplorer 400 need help
hello there ive recently purchased a 2001 polairs xplorer 400 4x4, this is my first ever quad.
i was performing a little maitenance on the machine when i removed the plastics from by the foot brake area and noticed the casing in there has a crack in it. i believe it may be the tranmission gear case? but im not sure just looking for some clarification on this. it is the area that has the fill plug as well |
This is the gear case. Hairline cracks can be fixed with epoxy,but if it's a large area a new case half may be needed if the case can't be welded.
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Old Polaris tech
Originally Posted by old polaris tech
(Post 3360274)
This is the gear case. Hairline cracks can be fixed with epoxy,but if it's a large area a new case half may be needed if the case can't be welded.
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Common problem if these cast pistons were worn past .005 clearance. Skirts would break and lodge down in the bottom. If you can't turn the engine over then sounds like you need to tear the top end down. You also really need to check for ANY up and down play on the rod at the crank shaft. If any play is found,a rod kit and bearings will be needed along with a new top end.I've seen people take short cuts when this happens and just do a top end only then have lower rod bearings take out a new top end.If you're lucky and there is no up and down play,the bottom end needs to be flushed out to get the small pieces of piston out. Wiseco is the best pistons out there when you have it bored to the next over size that will clean the cylinder up. Plus replace the crank seals that people always forget about. Before you do anything,take off the recoil cover and see if the bendix might be jammed against the flywheel. Might be something as simple as that unless it locked up on you while riding. It really helps to have a service manual if you don't have one. https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail....service-repair
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
(Post 3360274)
This is the gear case. Hairline cracks can be fixed with epoxy,but if it's a large area a new case half may be needed if the case can't be welded.
|
That much metal particles will be hard to get rid of out of the bearings and nooks and crannies,but you could fill the crank case with kerosene or naphtha run the rod around several time to help work out particles,drain and do the same thing again.Use some cheap oil and fill the crank case up and work this around then dump it out.Yes the engine needs to be removed to do this right or have some guys that can help lean the machine over.There is also a 10mm drain plug at the bottom of the engine that can help.If you're able to get all the crap out you may be able to get by with just a top end.Examine the rod carefully to make sure it isn't damaged or bent or all the flushing would be for nothing. I wouldn't do just a top end on and old machine like this,but that's just me.. IF you're going to do a top end only you can do a top end with out having to pull the engine. It's just easier to work on if you do. May the force be with you as they say.
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https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/atvconn...6d596cfcc2.jpg
Not 100% sure but is that hole supposed to be there in the crank case down by the crank? |
There is a hole in the case down by the crank on the front side is it suppose to be there? |
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I don't see where it's coming out on the other side so idk what it it leaking into
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