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-   -   Found my oil leak - cylinder gasket (https://atvconnection.com/forums/polaris/374130-found-my-oil-leak-cylinder-gasket.html)

old polaris tech 11-27-2017 05:55 AM

Nope,gotta go from the top down.. Get a manual before you start.Polaris ATV Service Manuals PDF Download

WilliamBos 11-29-2017 07:46 PM


Originally Posted by old polaris tech (Post 3379281)
Nope,gotta go from the top down.. Get a manual before you start.Polaris ATV Service Manuals PDF Download

Thanks for the link OPT.

Simon Miller 12-02-2017 10:59 PM

Ok - I’m tearing down the engine. Problem is that the cylinder won’t budge. Removed the 2 screws for the oil line, head bolts, and 2 screws on the flywheel side. What am I missing? Don’t want to break anything.

old polaris tech 12-03-2017 04:17 AM

If you have the head removed along with the two 6mm bolts on the cylinder,it may take a little tapping with a dead blow hammer all around it to help jar it loose while you're pulling up on the cylinder. After being on 18 years the cylinder may take a little persuading.

Simon Miller 12-03-2017 10:19 AM


Originally Posted by old polaris tech
If you have the head removed along with the two 6mm bolts on the cylinder,it may take a little tapping with a dead blow hammer all around it to help jar it loose while you're pulling up on the cylinder. After being on 18 years the cylinder may take a little persuading.

What about applying a bit of heat?

WilliamBos 12-03-2017 11:00 AM


Originally Posted by old polaris tech (Post 3379776)
If you have the head removed along with the two 6mm bolts on the cylinder,it may take a little tapping with a dead blow hammer all around it to help jar it loose while you're pulling up on the cylinder. After being on 18 years the cylinder may take a little persuading.

Silly question, can it be tapped from the side of the head?

I.b01 12-03-2017 12:58 PM

When separating head or cylinders, the gaskets tend to adhere to the adjoining parts and often require a certain amount of force. I always try to hit with firm, deadblows to reinforced areas and try not to hammer on the sidewalls to prevent any damage. Try hitting right beside where a bolt would be and should feel it start to loosen.
​​​​​​It would take a fair amount of heat on aluminum to do much and should not be required if all bolts are out. Its a bit of knowing and sensing how much force to apply to prevent damage and get the job done.

Simon Miller 12-03-2017 05:00 PM

I bought a deadbolt hammer, and could not get it off. After so much pounding I ended up cracking the cylinder. Which is fine because I’m looking at a rebuild kit that includes a new cylinder. Still can’t get it off though.

I.b01 12-03-2017 05:07 PM


Originally Posted by Simon Miller (Post 3379814)
I bought a deadbolt hammer, and could not get it off. After so much pounding I ended up cracking the cylinder. Which is fine because I €™m looking at a rebuild kit that includes a new cylinder. Still can €™t get it off though.

That's too bad about your cylinder. I would suggest next time to check and recheck if things on motors are not moving after a couple firm taps before applying much more force. It's a learning process to get a sense of what force to apply to different materials.

Also, did you remove the cam hold down/caps, cam, chain and chain tensioner?

Isaiah

Simon Miller 12-03-2017 05:56 PM

Entire head was removed with no problem. But cylinder won’t come off. I’m worried I now have to pull the entire engine out. Don’t have a flywheel puller - way too much $$$ for a one time job. Was trying to remove cylinder with engine in place. So hard to access all the places where I can hammer.


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