Has anybody installed one of these kits on their Magnum or Sportsman?.. I'm wondering what it did to help the machine? Where the changes are? Does it shift out later/sooner? What about backshift?
Thanks everybody....
OOPS... in the subject.. I meant to say.. CLUTCH... I think I should drink more coffee before typing..

[This message has been edited by mudmachine (edited 12-02-1999).]

 

I've got one on the 99 500cc Sportsman.It makes your engagement speed higher.It improves backshifting,and extends the life of your belt.It does nothing for your top end speed,it just helps you to get there a little quicker.Will I ever buy one again?Probably not.It cost about 225 dollars installed,and I really dont think it makes that much of a differance.BILL

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Robert, Floodrunner was thinking about buying one, not sure if he ever did though. I have the non-ebs one, but never tried it in a EBS machine.

Bill, it cost about $140 I think. It's not too hard to install I did it myself on mine. The $80 for labor you had to pay definatly puts a "dampen on mood" though.

 

Yeah... $140 is what the book says... and installation if free, as long as I'm willing to do it myself...

 

What do you guys mean by "backshift"?
Andy G

 

Andy,

Backshift is just like what it sounds. When you let off the throttle and the engine braking kicks in, which is when the rpm' & gear rations start to lower, kind of like on a standard. Even the non-ebs have engine braking. What ever RPM you tune the clutches to engage at, is also where they disengage causing free-wheeling. Just blip the throttle keeps it engaged down to about 5mph on mine I think.

The EBS models are different though. Not sure how a stronger backshift would effect them, since EBS would seem to take over.

 

Thanks for clearing that up Quad Man. I understand now.
Andy G

 

You can make a difference just by buying different springs. A stiffer primary spring will make for a higher rpm engagement. The tighter you wind the secondary spring,or buy a tighter one the better the back shifting. The secondary spring is trying to pull the converter apart.(alowing the belt to ride in the smallest diameter on converter)but will take more rpm's to hit top speed.The spring are fairly cheap and are good to start with.

 

I tried an Erlandson kit for EBS when I first got the SP500. Didn't do it. It made engine braking so bad that if you backed out of the throttle at 30 it wanted to put you over the bars. Most of these EBS kits are like that. More pressure, more ebs. I also hated the higher engagement. I'm getting it a lot closer with removing the roller setup and going to standard clutches with a roller secondary along with lighter flyweights. It's about 80% where I want it right now. I need to get a softer drive spring for lower engagement and then we can start adjusting from there. I don't have the tach on yet either and for serious tuning you just got to have one.

<A HREF="http://www.godigital-design.com/96Polaris.html">Schultz Motorsports</A>

 

Jack,
Thanks for the info... My whole thing right now is that it seems to be engaged at idle.
When its cold, not a problem. But, when you shift between gears after it warms up, it seems to grind every time. Not bad, but it DOES do it. My Scrambler will only do that if i'm rolling forward and slam reverse.
And.. when in low range, if I just let off the brake, it will slowly creep forward. Is this all normal for the EBS system?.. I'm thinking I could just change to a higher stall primary spring and stop the creeping, I'm not sure if that will stop the grinding.
This thing ,in low range, needs no brakes. As soon as you let off the gas... you're stopped...
Anyway, is this behavior normal?...