Lets us know what you find out.

Greg

 

Greg,

There are 4 bolts holding the fan/fan shroud to the radiator shroud. You can take those out, and unplug the motor from the wiring harness. There is the best dimensional data that I have seen anywhere at the offroadwarehouse.com site. They give absolutely every dimension and a detailed drawing of every fan. I believe ours is a 10" fan. Go look and you'll see what I mean.

On a side note, I ran by a steal on a '97 300EX for $1600 the other day. I bought it. Now I have the 2001 400 Xplorer, and a '97 300EX. I like both, depending on what I'm doing.

Later

 

Well, it has taken me a while, but I have found a solution to the post 2000 model fan problem. I noticed that the sticker on the back of my fan had the brand name "Spal" on it. To make a long story short, you can call Keith Wisswell at 1-800-341-7757. The part number for the exact replacement is: 30100515. Cost is 79.99 plus freight. This still isn't as inexpensive as I was hoping for, but I checked 2 dealers, and for the same part, one wanted $172 and the other wanted $235, and that was without tax. The neat thing is that it is the exact same fan as what is on the bike........at a much cheaper price. Mine will be in next week.

 

Thanks walexa...

 

Walexa Good thing you hunted that info down my fan just crapped out on the weekend. It Made the Old H.O Over Heat It was spinning real slow I then let the over heat light go off and drove it into a lake to cool her off real good Now it works fine. And well the warrenty just went off. Looks like i will be fixing this one.

 

Instead of starting a new post, I figured I would add more info to this existing post: I have good news for all with the latest cooling fan design (2000 and later models, except sp700). Last night, I completely dissassembled my original fan. You must press out the shear pin that drives the plastic fan blade, and then remove the armature from the motor housing. Although the back side of the armature is supported by a bushing, the one on the output side is a 608D ball bearing, the double sealed type. If run in alot of water, the water will eventually get past the seal(s) and ruin the bearing. The bearing will begin running rough, and could possibly seize. Provided the armature and brushes are in good condition, everything can be dissassembled, and I think the bearing can be replaced. I took a dremel tool to remove the factory keepers for the bearing. I was doing this inside the house, so I didn't have the proper tools to remove the bearing..........I will attempt removal this afternoon. I will also update the price of the bearing. I am guessing the bearing will cost me less than $5. The bronze bushing that supports the other end of the armature should never wear out, and just a dab of grease upon reassembly would probably be a good idea. I plan on putting the new ball bearing back in with yamabond on the outside race, as well as where the shaft goes through. This is probably where water gets into the motor. Anyway, this is just an update, and I hope to have more info for everybody later this week.

Waylan

 

Thanks again walexa.