Has anybody had this problem; the brakes on the scrambler 400 will not work on the first squeeze, if you pump it twice it will stop on a dime, no air in the lines, not leaking anywhere, can the master cyclinder be rebuilt or is there a after market unit that works better than factory?? any ideas???

thanks in advance....

 

I had that problem on my 99 TB once and it turned out to be that the wheel bearings were loose. To check them lift the back end up and move the axle side to side and up and down. There should not be any play. Hope this helps.

 

fourjs yes mine is the same way has been for a while now i have tried everything nothing seems to help.it almost has to be in the master cylinder cause i have changed everything else on mine. i have just kinda got use to mine now[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Just back from a shakedown run with a new brake mod. The 2001 system is the ticket if you want to launch your nuts through the tank. I'm not sure if your 2000 already has the braided lines, or not. If not, you might have to change those out also. You would also need to change the brass distribution block out for the new aluminum unit. I have the HPD drilled front rotors, and the EBC (available through Hot Seat) on the rear. With this new setup, I was braking in shorter distances than a buds 400ex today....my 99 Sport weighs in at 420lbs full fuel wet weight, so take that into consideration if you have a relatively stock machine. It will still help. I did have the master cylinder from a 440 Pro X sled, this too had the phantom lever grabs....kinda pucker power when the trees get close. Good luck guys, and shout if you have any Q's, if I don't have the answer, I'll do my best to find out.

Ken

 

modquad do your back brakes work now like they should?also how much will the master cylinder run me?

 

If you hit it hard EVERYTHING locks. I'm sorry, I don't remember the cost of the master cylinder...I'll do some digging out in the shop and see if I can find the receipt. Bang for the buck, you might change the master cylinder first, then at a later time change out the rotors. Don't know if I mentioned it earlier, but be careful with the aluminum distribution block if you change that. You can keep the stock brass unit and get some adapters at your local hardware store. This master cylinder moves and holds a lot more fluid than the stock 99 unit. The less tree-bark I'm wearing after riding, the happier the girlfriend is.

Ken

 

buy a magara master cly. from HPD that is used for the dual braking system. you can slide the wheels with just 2 fingers on the lever. my wife would not ride her TB down hill till i changed the MC to one from HPD. if your rotor does not run true it will push the pads back as it turns and you will need 2 pumps to get the pistons and pads back out against the rotor.

 

i consider myself an expert on polaris repair. you guys need to ck run out on the rear rotor. thse bend easy and will cause this problem. i have been modifing the stock rotor gaurd by welding skid plate to this item. this will stop all fiture rear rotor problems

 

Just buying the EBC rear rotor from Hot Seat stops runout, and your quad on a dime....with the right master cyl....I could be wrong, but I don't think HPD sells the Magura cylinder anymore.

Ken

 

I've been living w/ this problem for 2 years now & am very much in the habit of tapping the brakes to maintain pressure for when I really need it. My Polaris mechanic said he sees these come in w/ this problem often & I need to go to the new master cylinder & it will fix the problem. He doesn't like the old style like I have & said it was about $120 for the new one. So after I figure out my whole brake package then I'll order the parts.
Jim Maloney 98 400 Scrambler
http://photos.yahoo.com/jim400scram