i know the bushing are not expensive, but the labor would be, me and my mechanic uncle could do it if i had the manual, but the money i do have i need to spend on the bushings, if anybody could Scan how to repair that in a clymer manual, or any other manual for a 96' scram 400 4x4, i would appreachiate that so much, by the way, how much do the bushings cost?

 

Are you sure that they need replaced? The reason I ask is because alot of times you are able to tighten them up. When I first got my Polaris, I thought my swing arm bushings needed replaced too. I had alot of play in my swing arm. After getting it apart I had the new pieces in one hand and the old in the other. Then I realized that they weren't bad. I put the new ones in anyway. It was tight when I was done. About two months later I started to notice some play again. I tightened it up again by just tightening up the bolts.

After being service manage at my local atv shop, I've learned that these do have a tendancy to just work a little loose and just need tightened up. So far, we have been able to tighten them up every time we get one that is loose. We haven't had to replace any bushings in the time I've worked there. I'm sure they do eventually need replaced but it seems they can almost always be tightened up without replacing them.

Have you tried tightening them up yet, or are you absolutly sure they need replaced?

 

kukerdan,

Yeah, they are a pain in the butt to replace. But like Elroy said, maybe the bolts just need tightened. Polaris uses a locking plate that has tabs that bend in to keep the bolt from turning. On my two machines, they only had one tab bent in. that isn't enough to keep it from spinning. I bent the other two tabs in after tightening the bolt (you must remember to leave one tab unbent, it fits into a slot in the frame to keep the lock plate from spinning). But before you do this, you'll have to take off the back brake, the outer belt housing, both clutches and the inner clutch housing. Heck replacing the bushings is the easy part, the hard part is getting to them in the first place. It took me about half a day to do it (I had no help).

 

you might be right, i have no clue weather they are shot if they could just be loose, i lifted up the rears with a jack, and i grabbed the tires and they had about 3/4 inch play left and right, i dont even know if that much up there, but it looks like that , just like the end of the baseballbat is swinging faster than the handle, how do i go about tightening the boltm and bending in tabs? i hope thats the problem, because everything else is fine, is there anypart in a manual you could type up or scan for me?

 

To get to the bolt on the left side you need to remove the clutch cover an both clutches an then remove the backcover an then you can see the bolt for that side an the tabs, the right side you need to remove the rear break an the you will see the bolt on the right side, on the right side the nut is hard to see cause of the plastis gaurd for the swingarm. I have a 95 TB an they now have locking nuts for the swingarms I would suggest getting them. For tool you will need clutch puller for the primary clutch that would be the only speical tool you will need. I hope this helps I rebuild my TB every year an have done the swing arm quiet a few times.

 

wow sounds like a pain, but ill give it a try

 

Look real careful, the left side bolt may not be loose. For some reason, the bolt on the right hand side of the machine is the one that works loose most often. The amazing thing, is this is the easy bolt to get to. If it IS loose, replace the Nylock nut with an all-steel locking nut, and put loctite on the threads, then tighten the blue blazes out of it. You will want to wiggle the swingarm to be sure that everything swings free that should, and there isn't too much play in the swingarm before the loctite sets up, or it will be a pain to remove that bolt. If all seems OK let it set up overnight before you ride it.

Good luck.