I have a 2000 xplorer 400 4x4 that is heavily modded. I would say that 1 out of 4 times i take it out I will break a cv joint. I have replaced 9 in the last year and have 2 broken ones right now. I found a place on the net that takes your cv joint and puts their parts and their boot kit and puts it into yours. They both are given a lifetime warranty. The boot kits are 49.95 and are guaranteed for life. When you think about it the stock polaris ones are 40 bucks and don't have a warranty. Also they quoted me a price of 250 for the new cv joint which has a lifetime warranty. The guy told me they have only seen one break so far and it was an arctic cat with a 3" lift, 28" tires, wheel spacers, and some motor mods. They will warranty it no matter what you have on your quad. I will be sending my cv joints off next week to have mine done. They said they have a 1 day turnaround on their axles. If you want to check them out go to www.gorilla-axle.com. They don't answer their e-mails so give them a call and ask questions.

 

Lifetime warranty regardless of mods? Sounds like some heavy-duty setup. The prices aren't too bad, either, if they really are what they claim.

 

MGM,

I have brought up the topic of gorilla axles before, but nobody showed any interest in them. They are here in Monroe, LA, close to where I live. They bore the inside of the cv housing larger, to accomodate larger *****, and also bore the knuckle for the larger *****. The cage is beefier, and made of stronger material. When I called them back in the summer, they would only warrant the internals on Polaris joints. The reason was that they had some come back with the housing busted. They then had plans to make a sleeve that pressed onto the housing to reinforce it. Hopefully they figured something out, and now warrant the whole setup. The boots are more of a plastic material, much like the outer boots on many 4x4 trucks. They advertise weekly here in the thrifty nickel.

On a side note, I've got a question for you. Do any of your front 3 yokes fit loosely on the splined shafts coming out of the front gearbox? I think 2 of mine do, and I've replaced roll pins, and even replaced the one on the input shaft, but it's sloppy again. I've never read of one breaking, but I figure if one will break, you would be the man who has done it.

Anyway, thanks for the post on the gorilla axles. Hopefully this will cure the problem of breaking cv's. I've not broken one on my Xplorer 400 yet. I'm running 26" bi-claws on the front, and am running a 1.5" lift on the front.

Waylan

 

Walexa, when I spoke to the guy at gorilla axles he said exactly what you said about the polaris joints being thin. He said that they have found a way to cure it. He said that they will warrantee the joint. If something were to break, they will fix it. I told him I had 9 other extra cv joints just laying around so getting another one to him wouldn't be a problem. I am definitely going to be sending my joints to him. If someone was going to break one, it would be me. He told me that he has done lots of xplorer 400's. He said that it's because they start spinning the wheels and once the powerband kicks in, the cv joints have a large strain on them causing them to break. Now for the prop shaft, which is the shaft that runs from the gearcase to the front differential, I have broke it. I broke mine right where the u-joint starts. It just snapped in two. I have no idea what would have caused this. It looked as if the shaft were bent but never noticed it before. The day I broke it I had broken my chain and tried to get back to the truck with the front wheels. Then the left cv broke, then the right and prop shaft broke at the same time. Did you get your gearcase back yet from being welded? I hope that works out for you and you don't have to get the other side. I still need to get my bike back in the garage and rip it apart. I've got 2 bikes in my garage now that aren't even mine that I have been working on not too mention all mine. Too many projects, not enough time. Hopefully I'll get to it tomorrow night.

 

MGM,

Glad to know that they have a fix for the thin-walled joints. They also told me that Polaris joints are made by either BTB or USA, with the USA being the better of the two. I've been running my mud tires for a few months now, but the bi-claws are not nearly as aggressive as the 28" outlaws. You have to go to 27" in the bi-claws to get the real beefy lugs.

I got my case back yesterday, and it looked ok. I had to get the dremel tool to it to clean up the bearing support and output shaft seal hole. I had to replace all my bearings, since dirty water got in there and trashed them. The bearings aren't real hard to get off the shafts, and I've gotten off 5 of the 9. One came off with screwdrivers, and the others came off with a small puller. Unfortunately, the puller doesn't have enough reach to remove the other 3. I guess I will have to take it to a machine shop to get the rest off. I've been told that getting the new bearings real hot in oil will allow them to slip on easily.......we'll see. I'm also redoing my swingarm bushings again since they are easy to get at with everything torn down.

One thing I'm undecided about is replacing the silent chain or not. They have one in stock, and I have mine with me..........I'm guessing that I will take it up there and compare lengths and sideways sag to see if I need a new one. My sprocket shaft has a groove in it where it was pressing hard against the seal.......due to the crack. I hope it seals off when I get it back together.

Anyway, I'm just rambling.

Waylan

 

Walexa, I'm glad to hear that the weld looks okay. I hope my bearings didn't get fried but I have faith in the jb weld. What does the case go back together with? Is there a gasket or do you use hondabond? I wouldn't think you would have to replace the silent chain already. Just look at all these older scramblers and xplorers and you know they haven't replaced their's yet. If it does look stretched and it's a cheap part go ahead and do it. I'm not going to replace mine. I figure if I replace it, it will break anyway. It always does on my bike. Anyway now I'm rambling.

 

The reason I know my bearings were fried is that the tranny started whining loudly, moreso in low range, and by the end of Sunday night, it started whining in high range. The whining is what made me suspicious. Water and silt running in there for about 5 hours is what toasted mine. If yours does not whine, and the oil comes out clean, your bearings are fine.

I'll find out this afternoon about the chain. Partsland.com shows it costing $40, but the local dealer shows it costs $50. Along with the other parts I'm buying, he said that if I bring in the price sheet from the internet, he will try to match their price. All other parts have about the same price when comparing partsland to the dealer. I was kinda surprised they had the silent chain, but after looking at several models at partsland.com, I see that silent chain applies to lots of Polaris models. I'll let you know how the used chain compares to the new one tomorrow. I'm ready to start putting this thing together as soon as I get the other old bearings off and the new ones on. Hopefully it will be coming together tomorrow afternoon/night. I just hope I don't have any parts left over.....lol.

As for putting it back together, just make sure the case mating surfaces are clean and free of oil, and use the hondabond. I use yamabond, but I'm sure it's the same stuff. I also use it to seal my recoil starter to the engine, and mine hasn't gotten any water in it at all. When I use it, I just apply it to one side, and make sure I use plenty. It's a soft sealer, so it won't hurt anything if a little gets inside the tranny.

One question.......did you weld the yoke back on the shaft, or buy a new one?

Waylan

 

Walexa, I bought a whole new prop shaft. It came with two new u-joints already attached to it. It was much easier than welding it back together. Since then I have not had a problem with it.