Changing Primary spring in Clutch?
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03-24-2002, 12:29 PM
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03-24-2002, 12:56 PM
POLARIS MODEL(S) _________________________ YEAR(S) _____________
PERFORMANCE KIT FOR STOCK ATV ________ OR ATV WITH PIPE _______
OPTIMUM OPERATING RPM ______________________
1. Check to make sure all parts are accounted for. This kit should include the following parts.
One (1) HSP ___________________ primary spring
One (1) HSP ____________________ secondary spring. NOTE: EBS MODELS WILL NOT RECEIVE A SECONDARY SPRING. STOCK SPRING IS REUSED.
Three (3) HSP ____________________ primary clutch weights. NOTE: These weights are pre-balanced and are matched set.
One (1) HSP ____________________ secondary clutch helix.
One (1) HSP gold primary clutch bolt washer.
· For this application the secondary spring will be placed in the __________ hole of the helix and the ______________ hole of the secondary sheave.
2. To begin the installation, you will need to remove black plastic clutch housing. You may need to loosen rear fenders on the clutch side footrest to aid in the removal.
On Gen. IV models it may be necessary to remove the Phillips head screws holding the footrest to the frame. This will allow you to pull the fenders away just far enough to remove the clutch housing. Next remove all the screws and metal retainer clips (some models) that hold housing on. Remove the rubber exhaust boot. NOTE: It should not be necessary to cut the tie strap if done carefully. Now remove the housing from the unit, making sure not to damage the foam rubber gasket.
PLEASE REFER TO PAGE 2 FOR MORE INSTRUCTIONS
HOT SEAT ATV CLUTCH KIT INSTALLATION – Page 2
3. For primary clutch installation it is not necessary to remove the clutch from the machine. Remove the belt, then the center bolt being careful not to lose any washer(s), O-ring(s), or spacer(s). Replace the stock washer and replace with the supplied HSP washer. Remove the six cover bolts in a criss cross pattern (USE CAUTION. COVER IS UNDER SPRING PRESSURE). Once cover is off, remove the stock primary spring. Next, using an allen head and socket, remove stock primary weights and replace with the supplied HSP weights. Install the supplied hot seat primary spring. Reinstall the clutch cover tightening the bolts in a criss cross pattern making sure the X’s on the cover and the clutch spider are lined up and torque to 90-ft lbs. Reinstall center clutch bolt and torque to 40-ft lbs. It is also a good idea to inspect the rubber seal on the rear clutch housing, behind the primary clutch for damage and replace if necessary.
4. For secondary clutch installation you will need to remove clutch from the unit. Remove the center bolt, making sure not to lose any washer(s), spacer(s), or O-ring(s). In most cases the clutch should remove easily from the shaft. If it does not, you may need a clutch puller (available from HSP).
5. Disassembly and reassembly of the secondary may be easier with someone to assist. From the helix side of the clutch on non-EBS models, grab the sheaves (ONE WITH EACH HAND) and rotate them against each other ¼ of a turn and hold with one hand. Then with a rubber mallet (GENTLY) tap the helix down ½ inch. Now using snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring and gently release the two sheaves. On EBS models there is no need to rotate the sheaves. Simply push down firmly on the helix and remove the snap ring.
6. Next remove the stock helix and spring. Carefully inspect the secondary clutch buttons and replace if excessively worn. Now on non-EBS models with an assistant, reinstall the supplied HOT SEAT spring and helix in the recommended holes (see Page 1). Once the spring is in place, push the helix down ½ to ¾ of an inch until it engages the spline. Then rotate the moveable sheave counter-clockwise 1/3 of a turn and hold it. Now push the helix all the way down on the spline and reinstall the snap ring.
7. For EBS models reinstall the stock secondary spring and the supplied HOT SEAT helix. Simply push the helix down far enough to reinstall the washer and snap ring.
8. Reinstall the clutch on the unit and torque to 17-ft lbs. Reinstall the belt so the numbers are right side up and are easy to read. Before putting the housing back on you will want to double check various tolerances such as clutch offset, which should be 5/8 of an inch. Belt deflection should be no more than 1-1/8 to 1-1/4 of an inch. FOR OPTIMUM PERFORMANCE, MAKE SURE THE DRIVE BELT IS IN GOOD CONDITION.
9. Now reinstall the clutch housing, making sure that the foam rubber gasket is in the proper place so that no water leaks can occur. Reinstall the rubber exhaust boot.
10. Do not forget to tighten all fender bolts or footrest bolts that may have been loosened during disassembly.
CAUTION: If you are not qualified to do clutch removal and installation procedures, DO NOT ATTEMPT. Serious injury can result from improper installation of clutch and engine components. If you need assistance, contact your local dealer.
PERFORMANCE KIT FOR STOCK ATV ________ OR ATV WITH PIPE _______
OPTIMUM OPERATING RPM ______________________
1. Check to make sure all parts are accounted for. This kit should include the following parts.
One (1) HSP ___________________ primary spring
One (1) HSP ____________________ secondary spring. NOTE: EBS MODELS WILL NOT RECEIVE A SECONDARY SPRING. STOCK SPRING IS REUSED.
Three (3) HSP ____________________ primary clutch weights. NOTE: These weights are pre-balanced and are matched set.
One (1) HSP ____________________ secondary clutch helix.
One (1) HSP gold primary clutch bolt washer.
· For this application the secondary spring will be placed in the __________ hole of the helix and the ______________ hole of the secondary sheave.
2. To begin the installation, you will need to remove black plastic clutch housing. You may need to loosen rear fenders on the clutch side footrest to aid in the removal.
On Gen. IV models it may be necessary to remove the Phillips head screws holding the footrest to the frame. This will allow you to pull the fenders away just far enough to remove the clutch housing. Next remove all the screws and metal retainer clips (some models) that hold housing on. Remove the rubber exhaust boot. NOTE: It should not be necessary to cut the tie strap if done carefully. Now remove the housing from the unit, making sure not to damage the foam rubber gasket.
PLEASE REFER TO PAGE 2 FOR MORE INSTRUCTIONS
HOT SEAT ATV CLUTCH KIT INSTALLATION – Page 2
3. For primary clutch installation it is not necessary to remove the clutch from the machine. Remove the belt, then the center bolt being careful not to lose any washer(s), O-ring(s), or spacer(s). Replace the stock washer and replace with the supplied HSP washer. Remove the six cover bolts in a criss cross pattern (USE CAUTION. COVER IS UNDER SPRING PRESSURE). Once cover is off, remove the stock primary spring. Next, using an allen head and socket, remove stock primary weights and replace with the supplied HSP weights. Install the supplied hot seat primary spring. Reinstall the clutch cover tightening the bolts in a criss cross pattern making sure the X’s on the cover and the clutch spider are lined up and torque to 90-ft lbs. Reinstall center clutch bolt and torque to 40-ft lbs. It is also a good idea to inspect the rubber seal on the rear clutch housing, behind the primary clutch for damage and replace if necessary.
4. For secondary clutch installation you will need to remove clutch from the unit. Remove the center bolt, making sure not to lose any washer(s), spacer(s), or O-ring(s). In most cases the clutch should remove easily from the shaft. If it does not, you may need a clutch puller (available from HSP).
5. Disassembly and reassembly of the secondary may be easier with someone to assist. From the helix side of the clutch on non-EBS models, grab the sheaves (ONE WITH EACH HAND) and rotate them against each other ¼ of a turn and hold with one hand. Then with a rubber mallet (GENTLY) tap the helix down ½ inch. Now using snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring and gently release the two sheaves. On EBS models there is no need to rotate the sheaves. Simply push down firmly on the helix and remove the snap ring.
6. Next remove the stock helix and spring. Carefully inspect the secondary clutch buttons and replace if excessively worn. Now on non-EBS models with an assistant, reinstall the supplied HOT SEAT spring and helix in the recommended holes (see Page 1). Once the spring is in place, push the helix down ½ to ¾ of an inch until it engages the spline. Then rotate the moveable sheave counter-clockwise 1/3 of a turn and hold it. Now push the helix all the way down on the spline and reinstall the snap ring.
7. For EBS models reinstall the stock secondary spring and the supplied HOT SEAT helix. Simply push the helix down far enough to reinstall the washer and snap ring.
8. Reinstall the clutch on the unit and torque to 17-ft lbs. Reinstall the belt so the numbers are right side up and are easy to read. Before putting the housing back on you will want to double check various tolerances such as clutch offset, which should be 5/8 of an inch. Belt deflection should be no more than 1-1/8 to 1-1/4 of an inch. FOR OPTIMUM PERFORMANCE, MAKE SURE THE DRIVE BELT IS IN GOOD CONDITION.
9. Now reinstall the clutch housing, making sure that the foam rubber gasket is in the proper place so that no water leaks can occur. Reinstall the rubber exhaust boot.
10. Do not forget to tighten all fender bolts or footrest bolts that may have been loosened during disassembly.
CAUTION: If you are not qualified to do clutch removal and installation procedures, DO NOT ATTEMPT. Serious injury can result from improper installation of clutch and engine components. If you need assistance, contact your local dealer.
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