did anybody ever make their own a-arm skidplates out of diamond plate. i have a 2001 trailboss 325 with stock a-arms. what should i use to cut them and attach them, or should i just buy them.

 

I have thought about making them out of diamond plate aluminum. I have bought the material but as of right now I am undecided on how to make them.

 

Yah I made some for my Scram out of 1/8 stainless steel sheet metal stronger than you think. Fortunately there is metal fab shop where I work. I don`t run them that all the time because they hold the mud too much even with the holes. If I know it`s going to be rocky I`ll put them on.

I made a cardboard template first, then added 1 inch to the leading and trailing edges to bend up at a 90 deg. angle (around the a-arm) before cutting, I welded a 3/8 nut to the inside and outside for attaching points, I used 2 1 inch wide pieces that went across the a-arm front to back these were 3/16 thick so they would not bend that much when I tightened them down with a bolt down to the welded nut. I then drilled 7 1 inch holes for drainage 4 across the long side and 3 on the short. HTH

 

While I have not tried making any, they would be fairly easy to make. I bought a set for my 4x4. I would highly suggest anyone with a 4x4 to make sure they bend up in the front to protect those CV joints(Replace those useless plastic guards). Most of the Utility style guard are held on by U-bolts. This design will leave you with studsand nuts visably sticking down through the plate, If you don't Mind the studs and nuts this is the easiest way to do it.
The Polaris and DG A arm guard just go on the bottom of the A-arm(No front protection) witch is all you should need on a 4x2. They are held on by an L shaped aluminum bracket. THis design is nice because there is no studs sticking down through the plate, It would be a little harder to make compared to the U-bolts.

 

They are very easy to make. Just use a piece of cardboard to make a template. You can use either .125, or .090 thick aluminum. I've even started fly-cutting lightening holes, which also work good for draining sand, mud, etc.

When bending aluminum, it has grain just like wood. Make sure to smooth the edges good (debur), then bend perpendicular to the grain. Also beware, the T-3 and T-6 aluminum is already heat treated and is brittle. O grade is for fabricating, then you can get it heat treated, or it will age harden over time.

Ken

 

We have for the trx 300, we also have drain holes. for mounting we use two flat rectangular pieces of alum. and U bolt them arond the a-arms. The stock one only protect the front of the CV, these ones go underneeth the a-arms as well.

 

A racing buddy of mine did this for his 250R fourtrax. He took a light piece of aluminum and bent the edges over in a vise. Then He cut slits into the edge of the plate and then secured them to the A-Arm using hose clamps. This bike was used to take the National Hare & hound series ATV Class several years in a row. He never had any trouble with them. They held up to the abuse of off-road racing.