Thanks SuperDuty700, Ryan & EC for your responce but what about others? I am soon to be receiving the FTR style HPD race pipe. The one that wont burn you leg. Anyway, everyone is telling me that it wont work w/ the HPD trail porting setup so I have a few questions. For those of you who have experience w/ this combination, do you like it? Is there any improvement in top end speed or acceleration over the trail pipe w/ trail porting? Exactly what primary/secondary spring, helix & weights are you using & for what application? For instance I'm not doing just drag racing w/ it so I'm not looking for a 100% drag race setup. I also do fast trail riding/MX type of stuff. I talked to Mike @ HPD & he wasn't exactly sure what clutching to suggest or how it would work so that was a little discouraging. I did speak to Ritter who is always very happy to help as usual but I wanted some other first hand experience first. My set up lightened flywheel, 39mm Kehien carb(sp?), HPD 12:1 cool head w/ trail porting/girdle kit, V-Force reeds, Ritters air box, HPD's $90 trail clutching kit & soon to swap out HPD trail pipe for HPD race pipe.
Thanks
Jim Maloney
http://photos.yahoo.com/jim400scram

Hey Jim, All during last summer, I had many chances to watch the R&D of HPD's new power-valve system. Just to see the amount of adjustment, and more adjustment required just to get that style pipe working, really gave me an appreciation for getting the parts that were designed to work with each other. I'm not saying the match won't work, but from my machine, I can tell you, the race-mod porting matched with the ATV8 pipe gives you instant 250R like throttle response. There are NO flat-spots, and for woods or drags, it's a blast. I'm sure you could probably make things work, but I'm thinking you might be money (and less headache) ahead if you go with the race-porting besides. Just my 2c. Whatever you do, make sure to try the quieting kit (wormclamps and kevlar bands), it's very simple parts, but they knock over 10 DB off the front of the pipe.

Hey Jim is that Ramie's pipe your swapping.I think with the trail porting it will work ,but you won't be using all of the pipe.As far as clutching go's you will have to see how the bike rev's with the trail porting.I don't know of anyone running this setup.Bubba 297 should be able to help you out on the clutching.Later.

Jim, I run a similar setup. I had Rick Ritter do the trail porting and flywheel lightening for me and I run the CPI race pipe, which I would say is more radical than either the FTR or the HPD pipe. This pipe is huge. The Scrambler runs beautifully for a heavy 4x4 & it will take my brother's modified Banshee in a 300ft. race. I removed a Hotseat trail pipe when I put the CPI on and there is a noticeable difference in power, but the throttle response is still excellent. Here's my current setup:

39mm carb
V-Force Reeds
Hotseat CoolHead
Polaris orange primary, 55 gram weights
AAEN Roller secondary, AAEN blue spring set on 2&2
38-42 split-cut helix
Modified 500 airbox with K&N Filtercharger

We do a lot of hillclimbing, pipeline and harescramble riding and I've only fouled 1 plug since I've owned it.

And to add to Kevin's post: The trail porting does work OK, but until you put the specs on the transfers and exhaust where they need to be, you are falling way short of power. I too am running the CPI pipe, which is what FTR built theirs around. Kind of funny that HPD's new pipe looks like a CPI as well.Hmmmm. The clutching I'm running wont do you any good , but if you like fast trail riding and MX'ing, I would go with the blue primary or a white EPI primary, 10-58 weights for aggressive riding or 10-56 for duning or MX'ing, and a 42-38 split helix with the violet secondary.Kevins setup would be good for trail porting, but with the race porting he would need a better primary and weights for sure. He is not turning the RPMs the pipe really needs. That pipe should turn 7500 on gas to make full power. That is with the correct porting. Race porting done properly will still give excellent bottom end pull and arm ripping top end.

Modquad, what do you mean quieting kit, wormclamps & Kevlar band? Who sells it & how much of the pipe is covered. I tried using header wrap but the cloth fell apart but it was quiet for a short while. Then I used pink insulation wraped in a couple really long 2" wide strips of alumn held on w/ stainless hose clamps. Man was that sucker quiet & of course it looked really good & shinny. Yes CED that is Ramies pipe & what a great guy to talk to, he's a really nice guy & very helpfull. The 44/36 helix number, do you want the first number 44 to be as larger as possible for improved acceleration & the second number 36 to be as small as possible for top speed? I didn't know what they meant. I think I'm going w/ the red primary for increased rpm engaement but not too high like the blue & go to 58 gram weights to bring the shift speed down because I dont want it to fall off of the pipe if it's shifts up too quickly since I dont have the race porting. At least I think that's what HPD Mike was trying to explain to me. I just wasn't sure about the helix. The violet secondary is always used from I can tell. Since I knew I was getting the race pipe & the whole tranny & engine was visible, I took them out & polished the alumn to a chrome like finish. Now I cant wait to try out the new pipe/clutch lightened flywheel & the whole thing is in pieces ARGH!! I'll let you know when I update my photo album w/ the polished tranny/engine/recoil housing pics if your interested.
Thanks again,
Jim Maloney 98 400 Scrambler
http://photos.yahoo.com/jim400scram

Jim, if you go too high on the first number on the helix, the secondary will shift out too quickly and pull the rpms down and off the pipe. It wont stay that way, but will fall off for a couple of seconds then catch back up. They recommend a 44-38 for the race pipe. If you go lower on the second number, you will climb rpms as you get farther out. The trail pipe uses a 36 to help keep the rpms up because the motor doesnt make as much power. The race mod will pull the higher second number, so that's why they use it. A drag helix is a 44-40 to pull hard all the way through. Always remember this rule of thumb: YOU WANT TO ALWAYS KEEP THE MOTOR LOADED AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE FROM BOTTOM TO TOP WITHOUT FALLING OFF THE PEAK POWER POINT. And sometimes that takes alot of tuning to get right. Buy Olav Aaen's clutch tuning handbook if you dont have it already. He is the master of the variable tranny and he tells all in his book. Hope this helps,Bubba

Jim, the quieting kit is an HPD unit. It uses kevlar fabric. It's really simple in appearance, but very effective in reducing DB's. I also run a couple of them on my silencer, and that knocked those DB's down also.

Bubba, I'll keep you posted on the Comet, waiting for a return call now.

I had asked big Mikey this same question when I had my Scram 4x4 with trail porting and everything you can think of to go with it. I pushed the issue because I was really interested at the time. He finally told me that there is no way he would go to that pipe for trail porting unless you are running a dome that requires race gas. He said there wasn't much of a difference on the dyno, but that it did make a difference in lap times. HPD's clutch set up for race porting is built around the RPM's that this pipe will make the best power. If you started with that clutch set up, you would have to be close to perfect. As for the dome, I guess it depends on whether you want to start buying race gas......

Hey Kevin, did you get the "classified" pic? You and Heapster are the only ones.