SP 500 Maintance
#1
Today I started my 20 hour (1st majorcheck up) oil change and grease job. Generally pretty easy but ran into several questionss/problems.
How do you get to the upper grease fitting on the steering shaft?
My SP was sold as a 2000 model but bought in Nov 99. Any advise as to packing the steering knuckles that don't have grease fitting. My manual says to "hand pack" the joints? How? Do you remove the joints or take a dull needle and syringe and inject grease under the boots?
Has anyone followed the manual and pulled out the screen in the oil resevoir? I found some fiber material covering the screen. Probably a good idea to check it.
Any other ideas on maintance on the 500?
Thanks.
How do you get to the upper grease fitting on the steering shaft?
My SP was sold as a 2000 model but bought in Nov 99. Any advise as to packing the steering knuckles that don't have grease fitting. My manual says to "hand pack" the joints? How? Do you remove the joints or take a dull needle and syringe and inject grease under the boots?
Has anyone followed the manual and pulled out the screen in the oil resevoir? I found some fiber material covering the screen. Probably a good idea to check it.
Any other ideas on maintance on the 500?
Thanks.
#2
Hi Hugh,
I also just went through the 20 hours oil change/grease job. I found a few fibers in the oil screen, but no metal (which I took to be a good thing). I admit I skipped the upper steering zerk because I was going to have to remove the rack and hood to get to it. Is it hard to reach? Some of the drive train zerks are d@mn near impossible to get to. I spoke to my local mechanic about the screen removal, he said I should only have to do it every other change or so, as most of the metal particles should have come out on the first oil change. Your thoughts?
I also just went through the 20 hours oil change/grease job. I found a few fibers in the oil screen, but no metal (which I took to be a good thing). I admit I skipped the upper steering zerk because I was going to have to remove the rack and hood to get to it. Is it hard to reach? Some of the drive train zerks are d@mn near impossible to get to. I spoke to my local mechanic about the screen removal, he said I should only have to do it every other change or so, as most of the metal particles should have come out on the first oil change. Your thoughts?
#3
Guys.
I ride a '98 Sportsman 500 with EBS.
I am way beyond the initial oil change but here is what I have found:
Even though the service manual says it is there I cannot locate the grease fitting at the upper steering post. I took the hood off and spent quite a bit of time attempting to locate it with no luck. My friends '97 has it. With the hood off it is easy to access. My guess would be the newer models don't have it?? Mine certainly doesn't have it where the '97 does. Can anybody else shed some light on this?
Yes, I do check the screen in the lower fitting of the oil tank. I have also found the screen beginning to block with the fibrous material you refer to. I agree with the mechanic, I only check it every other oil change. Be careful working with this fitting. It requires a large wrench and the tendency is to overtighten it. Large steel fititng in a thin walled aluminum tank. The potential for self inflicted damage is there. As recommended, I clean the fitting and use pipe joint compound when reinstalling it.
When I change the oil I drain the sump of the engine as recommended by Polaris. Many here do not do this but I always find the dirtiest oil in the sump. I get close to a cup of oil from this area.
DJ
I ride a '98 Sportsman 500 with EBS.
I am way beyond the initial oil change but here is what I have found:
Even though the service manual says it is there I cannot locate the grease fitting at the upper steering post. I took the hood off and spent quite a bit of time attempting to locate it with no luck. My friends '97 has it. With the hood off it is easy to access. My guess would be the newer models don't have it?? Mine certainly doesn't have it where the '97 does. Can anybody else shed some light on this?
Yes, I do check the screen in the lower fitting of the oil tank. I have also found the screen beginning to block with the fibrous material you refer to. I agree with the mechanic, I only check it every other oil change. Be careful working with this fitting. It requires a large wrench and the tendency is to overtighten it. Large steel fititng in a thin walled aluminum tank. The potential for self inflicted damage is there. As recommended, I clean the fitting and use pipe joint compound when reinstalling it.
When I change the oil I drain the sump of the engine as recommended by Polaris. Many here do not do this but I always find the dirtiest oil in the sump. I get close to a cup of oil from this area.
DJ
#4
Hugh,
To answer the question directly. To get at the upper grease fitting, if it is there, I remove the front rack by removing the 4 large phillips screws. Then remove the hood which is just clipped in place. The operation takes mere moments.
DJ
To answer the question directly. To get at the upper grease fitting, if it is there, I remove the front rack by removing the 4 large phillips screws. Then remove the hood which is just clipped in place. The operation takes mere moments.
DJ
#7
I am trying to decide whether to buy a SP500 or an AutoCat 500, after listening to you guys trying to maintain your SP500's I think I'll go for the Cat. I have two 2-wheel drive Polarises
a 325 magnum and TrailBoss and they've been no trouble, but I have heard that the Polaris 4x4 front hubs are problamatic and the SP500 is high maintenence.
a 325 magnum and TrailBoss and they've been no trouble, but I have heard that the Polaris 4x4 front hubs are problamatic and the SP500 is high maintenence.
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#8
Hey fourlinx don't let that scare you away, but either bike is a great choice...where have you heard about so much trouble with the front 4x4??? About the only weak link I have found is how Polaris has the wires run down that go into the strut but I am in the process of fixing something to seal that, the Polaris system is the ultimate in pulling though with true 4 wheel pull. As far as the maintenance it is no more than any other bike except for greasing the zerks which took me every bit of 30 minutes...guess it depends what kind of tools you have, I have no expert setup 2 hydraulic jacks to completely jack the Sportsman up an electric drill with socket fitting to remove wheels and any other screws or nuts and thats it doesn't sound very complicated does it???
You have to pay the price for the ultimate suspension, the cat has a real good rear suspension which is semi independant but there is no comparison to the Sportsman suspension, I think even most Cat owners will tell you. I own both machines and which ever you chose you can't go wrong...
You have to pay the price for the ultimate suspension, the cat has a real good rear suspension which is semi independant but there is no comparison to the Sportsman suspension, I think even most Cat owners will tell you. I own both machines and which ever you chose you can't go wrong...
#9
Fourlix
I am sorry to scare you off. I am an MD by trade but I like getting dirty. Don't let my question scare you off. I looked at everything before I bought the Polaris 500. The maintance is not a big deal. I could not find one zerk up on the steering shaft, but went by the Polaris dealer and they showed me where it is (it was right in front of me!). If you have a grease gun, a long extension, a few metric and standard sockets, it iss not a big deal. I also used a small jack just to pick up the wheels.
I like to do my own maintance so I get a feel of how everything works. I don't regret my decision about buying the 500.
Let me tell you a quick story about picking and choosing. I am tall so the bigger machines where more comfortable. I wanted IRS, 2wd-4wd option. Only the Yamaha Kodiak and the SP500 fit my profile. I also looked at the Traxter but it was a little too new. I bought the sp 500. My buddy bought a Kodiak. He has had so much trouble with leaks, parts back order for over a month that he just traded it in for a Traxter. He is a master mechanic and I believe him when he says the Traxer is a bullet proof tank.
I liked the Artic Cat. A friend of mine has one and he likes it. Just take your time and drive them all. My friends that have Polaris has been great getting parts, unlike the Yamaha.
Good Luck
I am sorry to scare you off. I am an MD by trade but I like getting dirty. Don't let my question scare you off. I looked at everything before I bought the Polaris 500. The maintance is not a big deal. I could not find one zerk up on the steering shaft, but went by the Polaris dealer and they showed me where it is (it was right in front of me!). If you have a grease gun, a long extension, a few metric and standard sockets, it iss not a big deal. I also used a small jack just to pick up the wheels.
I like to do my own maintance so I get a feel of how everything works. I don't regret my decision about buying the 500.
Let me tell you a quick story about picking and choosing. I am tall so the bigger machines where more comfortable. I wanted IRS, 2wd-4wd option. Only the Yamaha Kodiak and the SP500 fit my profile. I also looked at the Traxter but it was a little too new. I bought the sp 500. My buddy bought a Kodiak. He has had so much trouble with leaks, parts back order for over a month that he just traded it in for a Traxter. He is a master mechanic and I believe him when he says the Traxer is a bullet proof tank.
I liked the Artic Cat. A friend of mine has one and he likes it. Just take your time and drive them all. My friends that have Polaris has been great getting parts, unlike the Yamaha.
Good Luck
#10
I was recently performing the same maintenance that was previously mentioned. When I went to lube the zerks, I had a hard time getting any grease into the fittings - it seemed to just want to squirt out to the side. Is there a smaller grease fitting that I should have on my grease gun? The gun works fine on other fittings such as the bearing buddies on the trailer. Thanks for any suggestions. Jack


