1994 Polaris 300 4x4 fan?
#1
Is the fan supposed to run all the time once you turn on the ignition? The service manual says there's a switch in the circuit but I can't seem to locate it.
I just picked this up for something to tinker on so I'm not familiar with it yet. Wasn't running, is now, bones look good. Still has all original decals and tires with little wear. Looks like it's been in storage a long time.
Thanks for any help.
I just picked this up for something to tinker on so I'm not familiar with it yet. Wasn't running, is now, bones look good. Still has all original decals and tires with little wear. Looks like it's been in storage a long time.
Thanks for any help.
#2
Stupid sensor on the top rear engine mount has shorted out. Common for this to happen and the fan running constantly. Rather than replace this sensor,I'd run a toggle between the two wires and kick the fan on when going slow or under a load. A lot of air/oil cooled machines don't even have fans.Imo a fan wasn't ever needed. Sensor location is item#7(part #4010211) http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...1994&fveh=5385 http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-THERMOSTAT-COOLING-FAN-4010211-/271658338326?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f40194816&vxp=mtr
#4
Toggling is better than replacing this flimsy sensor that will just break again or short out.Plus even with a working sensor the fan didn't come on unless the atv got super hot because of where the sensor was located in the first place,the motor mount bracket instead of on the engine somehere which makes better sense.
#5
When looking for a place to mount the toggle switch I found that I have an empty indicator for "HOT" in the panel. I think I'll wire the switch to light the empty indicator light when the fan is on (it's very quiet and I don't hear the fan run).
Now if I can just get that plastic lens out that says "HOT" and paint a fan symbol in there instead it will make sense with the light on...
Now if I can just get that plastic lens out that says "HOT" and paint a fan symbol in there instead it will make sense with the light on...
#6
Be careful as you have to use a razor blade knife on one corner of the lens,slightly buckle it up to where you can grab it in the middle and pop it out. Has a tab on each side. To replace just insert one end,bend the lens and let it pop into the other side. Dirt Cheap Yamaha & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
#7
I found a guy on ebay that had switches with about any graphic you could think of. They are 20 A switches (so didn't need a relay) and are made for the marine environment. The wiring harness for the thermal switch at the back of the engine was routed back to the headlight pod and plugged directly into the spade connectors of the new switch. The only thing I had to add was a ground wire for the lighting of the switch.
I mounted the switch in the headlight pod on the left edge just above the choke lever.


Thanks for your suggestion OPT!
I still plan on using that "HOT" indicator light in the panel if I can ever find a decent thermal switch and a good mounting place.
I mounted the switch in the headlight pod on the left edge just above the choke lever.


Thanks for your suggestion OPT!
I still plan on using that "HOT" indicator light in the panel if I can ever find a decent thermal switch and a good mounting place.
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