i posted this in the yamaha forum and didnt get a single response....let me try here...im working on dudes 02 raptor....very neglected...set for months....would not roll or run.....to start had to replace carrier and axle....free up brakes....replaced plug(ngk), oil and filter(total drain), cleaned air filter, fuel filter, 2 ultra carb cleanings, new battery, and 93 octane after draining and flushing the tank...and the one way for the starter....okay...baack together....starts and idles fine.....when you give it gas its as if its in rev limit mode... play with the controls on the clutch perch for awhile with no luck and decide to bypass....tried a couple of ways some raptor sites suggested and still doing the same thing....even tried the 10-100 ohm resistor as per raptor tranny describes...still nothing...this bike is really pissing me off...any suggestions or questions are welcome....also anyone that has overheated a raptor and can tell me the symptoms before and after would narrow my diagostic search down tremedously....ive called my local dealers and they are either unwilling or unknowing.....thanks in advance....

 

Does this raptor have an aftermarket pipe? Mine has a FMF power core 4 full system. At anything over idle it spits and sputters then starts to backfire. It has been running a little rich. I think its getting to much gas. Try re-jetting. I myself do not know what sizes you need but that what my dealer told me to do.

 

hey rryder....its a all stock....now i will say that the cap on the exhaust is bent up....but the hand over the hole test was pretty strong....i too am running rich(burns your eyes rich)....

 

Since it is running rich you could try to remove the snorkle to even out the air flow. That is just a suggestion it helped mine a little but mine is getting so bad it won't even run. If that doesn't work the only thing i can say is to ask a mechanic at your local dealer or an expert on this site. Hope i could be of service.

 

did you try removing the parking brake assembly from the clutch perch

 

ive tried it lid on lid off....both with same symptoms....as far as removing the parking brake....i think that would be considered an open/closed circuit....and besides the previous bypass should eliminate the concerns you were going with...why....did you disconnect yours?

ryder...im pretty sure your problem lies within the carb/boot areas....i would contact fmf tell them where you live and what mods you have....then ask what the needle needs to be set at and which jets they recommend...and btw...a lot of dealers have the name behind them but doesnt mean the have the knowledge...most are independently owned and dont have to have factory trained mechanics... they are there to make money...and gettin your bike there is their main concern....the more info you give them and the specific task you want them to preform the better off youll be... hope this helps

 

WheelingGuy2003, This has to be your problem. Believe me I know how bad you are getting pissed. Samething happened to me. Had alot of parts to put on the Quad right. Just started ripping into it. Well when I removed the parking brake cable to put a block off on there I screwed with something up there by the clutch handle. It took me 4 hours to not shot the bike with a 9mm and figure it out. There is a button up inside the clutch handle where you have the parking brake lever. See I removed that completly not knowing. You have to have that in there. Now if you didn't remove that lever well there something wrong with your sensor. All I can tell you is it's the Parking Brake. Test this Theory out and hopefully I am of some good for ya. SSG JACOBS Peace in the MiddleEast!

 

hey sgt....i thought i reinstalled evrything right but ive made many mistakes in the past...i will recheck that...im a little unsure of which button you are referring to...im thinkin its the clutch button....but would the bypass uliminate those safety features?

 

I just over read your first list of parts and symptoms, thats when i realized something. When my starter bearing went out it some how left small metal shavings in the casing. This in turn found its way to my stator and grounded out my bike. Now this could possibly be part of your problem. If it is making good connection at an idle and as the rpm's increase the shavings are moving causing a ground, this made mine start to spit and sputter, also with the occuring backfire. Now i would recommend taking apart your case and give the stator a good yet careful cleaning. I am not telling you to go and tear apart your engine, it is just a suggestion. Hope i could help. Bye...

 

thanks for your thoughts on this rryder.....after i replaced the one way i was relieved to find no metal shavings in the oil....in fact the one way broke rather nicely compared to some having sheared bolts, bearing ground down to metal shavings, etc....the stator was found to be functioning properly after volt/ohm were tested....i could only hope it were that easy...keep the questions coming though....eventually you guys are going to help me figure this out!!!