hello to all,

i would appreciate any and all help with this 2000 banshee
i recently picked up,

i beleived that i only needed a piston, but came to find out it also needed a lower end, so i found a good deal on a Weisco +5mm stroker kit and picked it up, also i picked up some FMF fattys and was told with no lid on the box to use 340 jets.... at first i ran the engine on 280 jets..... it would start first kick, and seem to run well, but as you take it down the trail it wants to cut out, and some times even pop or spit and sputter, this occurs around 3/4 throttle so i installed the 340 main jets, i noticed a little more snap through out the existing band until it reached 3/4 throttle then it still wants to cut out,,,, the problem is to many varibles, im thinking it could be the reeds ? but my brother is thinking the timing may need to be readjusted to componsate for the +5 mm, also the floats were never adjusted with jet changes, and of course the stock port work for the large jets ,pipes and overbore, so at this point with so many varibles im askin for any and all opinions on getting this setup tuned in and running properly, or to your advanced tuning suggestions.

the bike will be used for aggresive trail riding, so im not sure if the 340 jets could be a bit much, by the time this thing is properly tuned? [ i guess they are a stage III jet, and i was thinking stage II would be more practical ??]

2000 banshee

FMF fatty
FMF power core2

.60 over
Weisco +5mm stroker rotating assembly
340 jets, no lid on air box

not sure of the reeds they appear in good shape, and are a transparent white. also there has never been any port work done.

 

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]I am not up on the +5 crank-set-up,But have worked a-lot on the top end on my 2005.These Banshee's are TOUCH-E when you start messing with the motor's!!!!First what is the sea level at where you live????.That can make a differance.The poping sounds like maybe a timing or firing problem,Also you may have to have the jug's ported to handle all the up-grades??? not sure!!!.The only way to know for-sure about the fuel mix,is to do a W.O.T plug read on it.Do you know what that is????.But first you go-n to have to get her to pull full RPM's.Like you said it could be a-lot of things!!!.I think the +5 cranks are for Drag racing mostly but I am not Sure!! I got mine stock and built it a-little at a time, it needed a bore job,just got tired!!!! so I sent the jug's off to HerrJug'sRacing and had Kevin do a port&bore on it,he did a-little more Porting than I really wanted, and I dropped the compression on the stock head when I put it back together.Soo>i put a Noss head on it!! with 19mm domes=145PSI.I also put a ajustable timing plate on it so I run a+4 timing.Pulled the Tor's off, and stock air box,Put K&N filter's on it.I started with 330 main's and #30 idle's.It was a little RICH!!!, I ride 99% of the time High Desert,at 3500Ft above sea level,so I played with the jetting till I Dailed it in with #310 main's>> it's a little rich at that but I feel SAFE!!!.Also put FMF Fatty's and silencer's on it,Due to adding so much more power,I had to put a Barnett clutch setup in it,and a bigger,heavy Chain and case saver.It RIP'S!!!!!!!.Wish I could help you more,but I havne't gotten into the crank part yet.But mine would run all the way up with any Jet set up from #270's to #330's,Lean is Mean!! But you have to B carefull,it can melt down a motor if you run it WOT for to long at a time lean.What do you have the needle clip's set at??? and the idle screws?????.I had a CDI box go bad on my Blaster and it would pop and back-fire at high RPM's.Hope this help's>> Luck>U will get it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

hello eddieo51, and thanks for your information,

first off i cant agree with ya more about runnin rich vs. runnin lean.

my brother has a cdi box off his 06 i will borrow , i always though the cdi worked or it didnt, i was unaware it could act in such manners..... then im thinkin it could be the reeds if this isnt the problem, becuase the conditions are similar to valve float, although im not to familar with diagnosing a reed problem,

as far as the needle clip settings, while the 280s were in i first tried lowering the clips to their lowest point to raise the needle soonest, i couldnt really tell the difference so i decided to install the 340s thinking at worst it would be to much and i could then change the clip setting, well i expected more of a difference from 280s to 340s, but hey it isnt running properly to know for sure, although like i mentioned i did notice a bit more power, but a very similar problem occuring with either jets, around 3/4 throttle, and like you was saying yours runs on several different sizes.....as far as the idle screws i currently have them 2 1/4 out.

yea im somewhat familar with the plug test, once i get her tachin then i will replace and check em, i was told to hold it open for around 4-8 seconds.

the tors have been eliminated from this bike.

yea im not up on the +mm kits either i just found the new Weisco kit as a good deal on ebay.

[i did have tomey clutches installed while the bottom end was redone
also the chain (520 o ring) and front sprocket are new]

 

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]J,The reed's if bad should have a clip broken out or warped looking,check the end's of them and see if they are closing EVEN.Yep most time if a CDi box fail's it just quit's!!!!!!!!!!But they can cause different kind's of problem's.Have you got the Tool to Sink the carbs?? I dont think that's the problem But you never know!!!!What I have found with mine is>>> It will almost run up High RPM's with all different Jetting and chip setting's>>Good!!! I have to dail it all in to get it to idle and pull of idle slow SMOOTH.Is there anyway you can change the CDI box and the COIL out??? that will tell you if one of them is the problem!!!!!!!!!!The WOT test will tell you the rite jetting once you get it dailed in,I just take mine out to the country and get on a good Black-Top road and Get in 5th or 6th gear and hold it wide open for a short distance,hit the Kill Switch,pull clutch in and pull the plug's rite there and read them!!!!!!Black=To Rich,Dark Brown=Still a-little rich,Tan to Lite Brown=OK,White=To Lean=Not Good.!!!.Most time I do it really in 4th&5th gear!!! 6th is Just to Darn Fast fer me!!!!!!!!!!!!With my set-up I am running #310 main's #30idle's and have the clip on the third setting on the needles,I wish I knew more bout them +5 crank's,I think the timeing has to be changed!!!Also I have a ajustable timing plate,I run a +4 on it.With my set-up I have 145PSI compression,I stay there so I can run pump gas.If I wanted a little more Juice out of Shee I can put different Domes in and bring the compression up!!!But it's all I can handle NOW!!!! When you get it dailed in your go-n to LOVE IT!!!!!!!!!!I think the Shee is the best Bang-fer-your-BUCK!!!!!!!!Hang in there U will get it.Luck.

 

well i dont have a tool to sync the carbs, but i did realize that the carbs that came on the bike [i am currently running my brothers 06 carbs with tors elimination caps] needed the throttle cables adjusted! one carb was opening much sooner than the other, but theese 06 carbs have seen very minimal use although the jets and needle clip position have been altered...

at any rate i will borrow my brothers cdi and coil , try them out and let ya know if anything changes

not sure of the altitude here in northwest ohio, im lazy to look it up, because im pretty sure its a bigger problem.

thanks again for your assistance !

 

thanks alot eddie for reminding me to try the cdi and coil !

i cant say for sure if it was the coil or cdi box because i just put them both on to see if anything changed, and seems to have this bike running fine!\
i imagine it was the cdi

however we could use more tips or tricks to get the most out of this combo, the all stock atc 250r is still neck and neck


thanks again eddie

 

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]I am not sure what to tell you now!!!.But that Shee should eat a 250 alive!!!!!!!!!!!!!.Mine isnt full Race or even close,but it will out run 450 Yamaha's and Honda's all-day.The big 4 stokes!!!A 700 Raptor with work on it will give me a run,but I can still take them.I run a lot of TopEnd with mine,I went 1 tooth bigger on the motor sprocket,and run 22in tires on the rear.Mine has been kinda a learning experence with me,I have rebuilt the top end 3 times,1 time I got dirt in it!!!new pistons and bore!!! that time it run good,but I had it Lean and my stepson melted it down,=new pistons and bore again.I just got back from the desert,I was out there 4 days and it run great.This is what I have done to it.The jug's were bored and ported by HerrJugsRacing,I have wisco 66mm pistons in it,stock carbs,FMF Fattys&Silencers,a +4 timing Plate,Noss cool head,with #20 Domes=145PSI.DirtDigger clutch,200 watt R&M stator,Aftermarket CDI&Coil setup.K&N filters.It starts good hot&cold.I unpacked the silencers,and run #310 mains&30idles with the clip set on the 3rd notch on the needles.You can get a lot of B&S if you ride a Shee!!!!.Some of them boys spend a ton of $$$$$ on them new 4 stokes,and it just kills em when they get a good A-- kicking by a OLD 2 Smoker!!!!!!!!!!!.Som-thin just not rite with yours but you will get it!!!!!!!!!!!.I bought a 2005 660 raptor new and just didnt like it!!!!!!!!.Top heavy&couldnt corner with it,and after a-little work on this Shee,it would eat that Rap-e UP!!!!!!!!!!!! Hands Down.I also have a 2002 Blaster with a 240 Kit done to it and other GooDy's and it runs good also.The Blaster will out-run the EX400 honda's I have also.But most guys wont beleave THAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.I think your go-n to have to get with sombody that knows them +4 cranks,its got somthing to do with that,i am sure.Luck.

 

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]J, after kicking your problem around a little,I think you need to have the jug's ported&put a ajustable timing plate on that pup!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.You can get a hold of Kevin Herr. His web site is >>Herrjug'sracing.com He's real good on these Banshee's.He builds them and knows them in&out!!!!!!!!!!!.Also he sells the +5 Cranks,so I bet he can tell you what to do!!!!!!!!!!!!.He is one Nice Guy!!!!!!!!!!!! He has helped me a-lot.He's building a motor 4 me rite now.Try his web site,if you have trouble getting him let me know,I have his PH#.He can build one that put's out a 100HP to the rear Wheels.SWEET.Just let me know>K<.tell him you talked to me.Herrjugsracing.com should get his web site store.Latter.

 

I had my stroker kit installed professionally but i had some issues after that with not running how i expected it too. I ended up changing my reeds to vforce 3s because my old ones were bad, and the person that ported my motor missed a reed gasket and my one side blew twice before i realized wat was wrong. I thought i almost had it switched to 310 mains and was out riding for half day and then my other side blew. Here i didnt know the needles were 1/4 to 3/4 so i adjusted them from 4th clip to the 5th. Did a couple test runs holding 1/2 throttle for about 1/2 mile. it says to kill your motor and pull in clutch when ur testing each individual plug range. My one plug was good and other was to lean so i adjusted it to the bottom and did another test. My plugs were the same now idk know why my carbs arent the same but it runs well and plugs are good. I synced both of my carbs by using the little windows as shown in book ull see the dot in window about almost full throttle. i now installed 320 mains and i am going to run 1/2 mile full throttle and kill motor. In the book it says 1 mile but im not that comfortable. The pilot air screws are the adjustment from 0to 1/8 throttle.

 

With a 5mm you need a port job, advanced timing 34 pj carbs (i would convert to alchohol) v force, k&n you name it. You bought a big boy crank now you need the parts to use the power, sorry but your thousands away from that bike running right.