Yeah the PWK36 is a good carb. Try to find one used, because they are ridiculously priced new. Used ones are under $100. New is like $200

 

there is a airstriker carb on ebay for $100.00 a 38size.

whats a rough jet size to start with being there honda carbs? or do you jet them like a honda?

had a rough weekened to hehe boot ripped when i was jetting the carb ordered a new one cost $50.00 YOUCH went threw 3 plugs at $7.00 a pop.
ordered the rest of the black plastic i needed. ordered some amsoil. i cant wait to get some rims for it but it will be over the winter before i get those and maybe a works shock for the back off of ebay. but the dealership did want to try one more time to push my loan threw for the yamaha YFZ450r but with the money im sinking in the quadracer it might be staying!

 

unless you are running in a lot of mud or water throw the airbox in the garbage and put a K&N with an
outwears right on the carb. I do that with mine and dont regret it for a minute.

 

with the K&n filter does the carb just hang there? or do you make some king of hanger for it?

 

I run the rad valve so the carb is held on to the front of the boyasan rad valve with a clamp and the filter clamps on to the carb.

I can send you a picture if you like.

 

It dangles a bit. IT would be good to rig up a support system. But I have ran with it dangling, although on my quad it wont dangle as much as on the 87+

 

i wonder why it dangles, mine is tight, race almost every weekend with it and it hasnt fell of yet, maybe if everything isnt sized perfect it might not be sturdy enough, also the rad valve is aluminum with a rubber
conector so i would imagine it would be sturdier than a rubber intake.

 

evhwg, you can save some money on plugs. A NGK B8ES runs just fine in mine. I needed a plug one day and had some left over for my blaster and compared them. I later found out that a guy at the cycle shop does the same thing. It is worth a shot. You can go to a 7 if you prefer hotter or a 9 for cooler.

Ronnnnnnn, posttttttttt theeeee picture, I would like to see it. I am thinking about doing the same thing. Do you remember the diameter of the opening and did you buy yours online? How much?

 

get a foam type filter like a uni. K&N tend to flow a little dirt with all that air. just a tip if you ride in a dryer, dusty area.

chuck

 

Chuck is right about the K&N's but if you get a prefilter you should not have a problem. They slip right on and off the K&N filter and are very easy to clean.

Getting a new carb would definitely be an improvement but I think you can fix the stocker if you want a less expensive alternative. Did you completely disassemble the choke? You need to make sure that it is fully seating. Even being held up 1 or 2 sixteenths will cause the problems you describe. In fact, just two months ago I fixed the carb on a friend's RM250. It had gotten to the point he was going through a spark plug every couple of laps around the track. The carb had two problems. First, the rubber boot around the choke rod wasn’t properly installed and thus was holding the choke slightly open at all times. The other problem was with the needle. The plastic piece inside the slide that was supposed to hold the needle down was broken. This allowed the needle to move freely up and down causing a richer than normal mixture in the midrange. Unless you are very knowledgeable with the various parts of your stock carb, I suggest you have someone else have a look at it.