Crank Bearing boss on ZILLA LT500
#1
Hey I was reading on the zilla reborn article on off-road.com that this is a problem that needs to be fixed. Ill paste in what they said below and you guys with zilla tell me how urgent you think it is that i should have this done?? I dont belive it has been done but i dont know and dont feel like having the cases split cause im not up for the task myself and low on loot right now. hah im asking cause i just bought one. check some pics out at:
http://www.ccfdriving.atfreeweb.com/zilla/zilla.htm
what they said:
http://www.ccfdriving.atfreeweb.com/zilla/zilla.htm
what they said:
We sent the cases out to Tudor's Performance in Corona, CA to have the crank bearing bosses machined to accept steel sleeves. Jeff believes that steel is much more desirable than the brass or bronze that the other shops use. The LT500R is prone to the bearing bosses becoming elongated due to different rates of thermal expansion of the bearings and cases and the enormous rotational mass of a 500cc single. With the inserts the bearings actually become TIGHTER as the engine heats up! If you have not done this to your 'Zilla you MUST while the cases are apart. When the bearing bosses fail it leads to certain engine seizure!
#2
Well, here's my OPINION for what it's worth:
They'll all need the fix, sooner or later... This was a design flaw that was never corrected.
The 'correct' fix is to find someone that can do steel inserts... that's the permanent fix.
Some shops do brass, because its more forgiving in the machining process, but it's a softer material.
How can you tell if you need it?
Pull the flywheel cover (Left side of motor)
Grab the flywheel, and try to wiggle up and down.... wiggle is not a real good word here, you'll need to get pretty rough (Nearly lifting the machine off the ground).... you get the idea...
ANY percieved motion indicates you need the fix.
What happens if you don't fix it?
Typically vibration becomes pretty bad, causing bolts, etc. to fall out.
Premature failure of the flywhee/hub assembly due to the imbalances,
and most of all, crank seal failures which will lead to a lean-out condition, and burn down the top end.
In other words... kaboom!
Typically machines with alot of hours or heavy use will need fixed... I ran mine for 13 years before I fixed it... but my baby is pampered.
Hope this helps...
Good luck!
They'll all need the fix, sooner or later... This was a design flaw that was never corrected.
The 'correct' fix is to find someone that can do steel inserts... that's the permanent fix.
Some shops do brass, because its more forgiving in the machining process, but it's a softer material.
How can you tell if you need it?
Pull the flywheel cover (Left side of motor)
Grab the flywheel, and try to wiggle up and down.... wiggle is not a real good word here, you'll need to get pretty rough (Nearly lifting the machine off the ground).... you get the idea...
ANY percieved motion indicates you need the fix.
What happens if you don't fix it?
Typically vibration becomes pretty bad, causing bolts, etc. to fall out.
Premature failure of the flywhee/hub assembly due to the imbalances,
and most of all, crank seal failures which will lead to a lean-out condition, and burn down the top end.
In other words... kaboom!
Typically machines with alot of hours or heavy use will need fixed... I ran mine for 13 years before I fixed it... but my baby is pampered.
Hope this helps...
Good luck!
#4
i have detected an ever soooo slight amount of movement in my flywheel CTATV.........soooo the engine is comming out(gotta decide on who to have fix it tho)..........might as well powder coat the frame as long as its empty
#5
CTATV, Duneaddict is correct , this is a problem with all lt500's. If your motor has had extensive work to make it work harder this may be an issue sooner than you think. Jeff Tudor does do nice work, He did My motor for me. The only problem with Jeff is that He is understaffed. It took nearly a year to get my motor back. So i wouldnt suggest sending it to him unless you have a year to waste.But back on topic, Yes you should have this done when you get the chance.
Zig
Zig
#6
it hasnt had motor work to make it run harder. Its a 1989 that has a DG pipe twinair filter with no lid on the airbox, boysen reeds, and was suposidly rebuilt a little over a year ago. Other than that it's bone stock. the guy I bought it from said he bought it and the top end had not been reasembled and he just got it back together november 2003. He said he was given recepts for parts not labor on the motor job but they just moved and havent found them yet so they will send them by mail when they find them. I got another question for ya:
1) i was 20:1 thats way to rich so i moved to 32:1 and have to go try it out today. what do you all run?
2)where can I get one of those plastic chain slides that goes on the top part of the swingarm?
3) the frame has a weld at the right front bottom a-arm mount and it wasnt done perfectly strait. could i get it cut and re-welded. it's strong structurally right now but it pulls to the right if you take your arms off the bars.
4) whats the airspeed volocity of a swallow
1) i was 20:1 thats way to rich so i moved to 32:1 and have to go try it out today. what do you all run?
2)where can I get one of those plastic chain slides that goes on the top part of the swingarm?
3) the frame has a weld at the right front bottom a-arm mount and it wasnt done perfectly strait. could i get it cut and re-welded. it's strong structurally right now but it pulls to the right if you take your arms off the bars.
4) whats the airspeed volocity of a swallow
#7
CTATV, Ill try to answer all your questions.
1) i use amsoil series 2000 @ 40 to 1
2) I answered you other post with the TMD design site linky.... They have the best chain slider available (IMO)
3) do you notice that the a-arm weld is not straight ? If its not just take it to a fabricator to fix it befor eyou have your frame painted of coarse. Also check your tie rods to make sure one isnt slightly bent and check them to see if you have the proper "toe in" adjustment set to specs. Also check tire pressure. I use a pep steering stablizer that i cant live without.. Its money well spent and makes the ride more enjoyable. peps dampener
4)airspeed velocity of an unladen European Swallow is roughly 11 meters per second, or 24 miles an hour.
1) i use amsoil series 2000 @ 40 to 1
2) I answered you other post with the TMD design site linky.... They have the best chain slider available (IMO)
3) do you notice that the a-arm weld is not straight ? If its not just take it to a fabricator to fix it befor eyou have your frame painted of coarse. Also check your tie rods to make sure one isnt slightly bent and check them to see if you have the proper "toe in" adjustment set to specs. Also check tire pressure. I use a pep steering stablizer that i cant live without.. Its money well spent and makes the ride more enjoyable. peps dampener
4)airspeed velocity of an unladen European Swallow is roughly 11 meters per second, or 24 miles an hour.
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#8
never had this done,what causes this problem from what Vito's Performance told me is that the oil lournal's on th side's of the crank are too small in diameter and that does not allow enough oil the keep the oil flowing to the bearing's fast enough.Vito opened mine up by drilling them out larger,I've had my quad since 1996 and still have not had a problem with that.
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