im about to change the jets on the Z400 - and everywhere I look - it says the screws that hold the carb floats on the bottom are nightmares... anyone done this ? is it true you need to change the screws - i hear 4x10mm from Home depot.
what is anti-seizing compound ??? never heard of that.
thanks.

 

Yea them screws are crap.All mine striped out.I had to take a Roto Dremel tool and make a new grove for a flat head screw driver to fit to be able to remove them.LOL that was the hardest part of adding my pipe and rejet.

 

Im dreading it now.
i went and got an impact screwdriver - but it looks too bulky and ??? not sure its worth 28 dollars - might take that back to Sears and just concentrate on removing them and finding the right replacement screws at home depot or something like that.


they make it so dang hard.

i heard someone saying something about anti-seizing liquid for the screws when you put them back on ? what is that .. its something like ANTI - locTite ??

 

Once you get the factory screws out it will be kewl.I think they are just weak screws that have been torqued incorrectly.
I still have the same screws in mine.They will be easy to losen now since they have a deep groove for a flat head screwdriver
made by my Roto Dremel Tool. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

It's a good tool to have but unless you bought the extra long #1 bit it will not work on the carb.

Just use a good screw drive. Give a few taps with a hammer on the back of the screw driver before you try to turn. Remember to push hard into the screw and turn at the same time.

Do not use never-seiz, it just makes a mess. The steel screws bind against the aluminum carb it's a chemical thing.

 

I had the same problems with mine aslo. I went and bought new screws at the dealer for like 3 bucks and change. It's not as bad as it sounds. Just use a dremel to make the deep groves.

 

Not only did I strip out my Float screws, but my Slide screws for the needle as well. I would recomend using the dremel to make the slots deeper BEFORE you even attempt to use the screw driver.

 

Whenever you have two dissimilar metals tightly together, there will be a galvanic action. Electrons flow from one to the other, and cause erosion and corosion. Anti sieze stops this. It also prevents galling and fretting, especially on threaded fasteners. Just dont overdo it, this is one time where "the bigger the blob.... the better the job" doesnt apply. If you put something together with anti sieze, itll be much easier next time to take them apart, even 20 years from now.
Try to find a snug fitting bit, to fit the screws, and heres an old trick, put lapping compound on the tip of the screwdriver, and it wont cam out so easily. Its a fine grit, that greatly increases friction, between the driver bit and the screw head.

 

I just change the jets in my Z last week. And sure enough, stripped the heads off two of the screws. Had to buy the impact driver at the parts store ($15). Its a good tool to have on hand. Bought replacemet screws at the hardware store but I will still change out with hex heads and use anti-seize. Good Luck

 

Yall must have had to take the carb fully off and put it in a vice of some sort for the impact driver to work ehh?