Well i really screwed it up now,my fresh lt250r locked up at s-tree trails in kentucky.My mechanic said i didnt break it in slow enough,and when i was taking it apart,i noticed a large tear in the reed boot,wich made it leaner and even hotter when i was breaking her in.So now it is resleave time.Hooray

 

Don't believe that break- in crap some mech's give you. All my bikes I was told to run the **** out of them from the start. Use good oil at the right mixture with no leaks that make it run lean and if they were rebuilt properly there will be no problems.

 

I think you are jinkzed Bro! why do you have to resleeve? You cant just bore it? How did you miss a tear in your intake boot? Thats prob why it blew last time!!! dam. Im sure it would have idle weird or something or rev funny like you rev it and it took a while to come back to idle or something. Let me know if I can be any assistance.
K-dog

 

well,there was a small crack in the sleave near the exhaust port,and everyone told me not to worry,cause it wasnt in a bad spot,but i think it was tarded of me to go ahead and throw it together like that.i dont know how i missed a rip in the reed valve,i went to pull off the carb to look in the intake port,and then i saw it.i dont know how it got there......the crack is right at the top of that little spline in the sleave the goes up the middle of the exhaust port,i think that and the reed valve rip are what did me in.---------------now,when i turn my engine over by the rod,(with no top end on) i feel some resistance,it doesnt feel like my main bearings are gone,it feels like the stator magnetism....but i also heard that bottom end bearings wil feel tight for awhile,and i only ran it for about an hour and a half total

 

should i feel any resistance when turning the crank,note that the engine is out of the frame,and i am turning the trans clutch and stator.it doesnt feel like the bearings are bad,it turns smoothly,but it feels like the magnetism of the stator grabbing a little at even points throughout the rotation. and there is only about an hour and a half on the bottom end (main bearings,seals,crank)

 

I really dont know how much resisatance there should be turning motor over by hand with cylnder off but I know my turned real easy when I was putting mine together. Of course I cant check yours since we are located to far away but I would just to be sure take to Bike shop and have them look at it. AS far as sleeve goes I would not have run a cracked cylnder when it heats up that crack is going to expand eventually It is going to break.Unless your cylnder is ported and polished and you have alot of money in it I would not sleeve it.It would cost like 100$ for sleeve and 100$ to have put in. You can get brand new cylnder for like 275$ or get one on ebay like I do when I need one. I buy cylnders on ebay for as cheap as 35$ there is on on there right now you might be interested in bored to 265 CC ported and polished etc check it out. auction ends in 2 dyas so jump on it looks like a good cylnder!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

k-dog